tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12595758027600958682024-03-05T10:29:41.972+05:30In the thick of life....Indulging the IVaijayanthi KMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00709649662447866587noreply@blogger.comBlogger454125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1259575802760095868.post-86109672193655262962019-12-11T14:16:00.002+05:302019-12-11T14:16:15.682+05:30Time for a broader perspective of Space<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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In the previous two notes, we explored how most of us are locked in a limited perception of time and self, endlessly chasing life goals without any relief in sight. For most, the only relief that comes is in death. What are we living for? What is the purpose of this human life? What is the point in chasing behind elusive future ambitions when you are not ab<span class="text_exposed_show" style="display: inline; font-family: inherit;">le to enjoy the pleasures of today? These are questions we rarely have time to answer. But, there is no more ‘time’ to be languishing in this ignorance.<br /><br />We are today poised at a time in history when Earth itself is evolving to her next stage. As we hurl through space, aligning ever more to the central sun, there are some extraordinary celestial events that have happened, are happening or are is going to happen such as the movement into the photon belt, galactic alignment, the alignment of the Suns, precession of Equinox, the solar flares, etc. As the Earth experiences a shift in energy due to these events, she goes through a transformation where before evolving into a lighter/higher density, she goes through a dark period and purging/pralaya.<br /><br />Right now, we are almost at the end of this transition – as a result, what is called a shift in consciousness is occurring – from existing in 3rd Density, we are moving to 5th Density (an increase in frequency). The lower the density, the higher the feelings of separation from the creator (duality) and grosser are our experiences. Now, as the Earth moves to 5D, it gives us an opportunity as well to increase our vibration and move closer to the frequency of light.<br /><br />Do not let the words confuse you – this transition can be viewed and considered from multiple angles – whether from a purely spiritual/”god consciousness”/belief perspective OR astronomical perspective with regards to the celestial events that are triggering this, OR from the perspective of an increase in frequency/vibration. But whatever angle you approach from, or whatever feels comfortable to you, the truth is we are facing a wonderful opportunity to move into a higher state of vibration nearing the frequency of light.<br /><br />So, how do we move to 5D? It is very simple though may not "easy" in current times – all we need to do is hold the frequency of love and truth in our lives, and purge ourselves of our past baggage, ego-self and make all attempts to come out of the grips of ignorance, it will happen automatically as we align our vibration with Earth.<br /><br />However, for those of us that are still caught in the dramas of our limited selves, this will indeed prove to a testing period.<br /><br />Ultimately, as the Rishis and Siddhars outline, the end of Kali-yuga may even destroy your very soul. But before that, the inner struggle of your soul will reflect in your external life bringing you much pain and challenges. This is why it is important to know that your real self is not merely what you are today. “You” are much much more – a multidimensional being as they call it. And tools such as meditation, yoga, mindfulness and any of the hundred other holistic practices are designed and being made available to us today for this very reason.<br /><br />As we take time to practice this and realize and break out of the limited perception of Self, Time and Space, we can realize a higher truth about our own existence and ‘reality’. We can finally move out of duality and experience the universal consciousness that has been spoken about – Or bring the universal consciousness into physical reality into our daily lives.<br /><br />In short, the need of the hour is this:<br />1. Live a life of love towards yourself, your family, all human beings and all beings<br />2. Shed the past baggage/karma (there are many tools for karma cleansing)<br />3. Shed the ego-self (practicing humility, self-work, soul work)<br />4. Educate yourself and come out of ignorance (stop subjecting yourself to the influences of the external world, frequency control, Maya, etc, etc.)<br /><br /><a class="_58cn" data-ft="{"type":104,"tn":"*N"}" href="https://www.facebook.com/hashtag/goldenage?epa=HASHTAG" style="color: #385898; cursor: pointer; font-family: inherit; text-decoration: none;">#GoldenAge</a><span> </span><a class="_58cn" data-ft="{"type":104,"tn":"*N"}" href="https://www.facebook.com/hashtag/timeperception?epa=HASHTAG" style="color: #385898; cursor: pointer; font-family: inherit; text-decoration: none;">#TimePerception</a><span> </span><a class="_58cn" data-ft="{"type":104,"tn":"*N"}" href="https://www.facebook.com/hashtag/ascension?epa=HASHTAG" style="color: #385898; cursor: pointer; font-family: inherit; text-decoration: none;">#Ascension</a><span> </span><a class="_58cn" data-ft="{"type":104,"tn":"*N"}" href="https://www.facebook.com/hashtag/spiritualgrowth?epa=HASHTAG" style="color: #385898; cursor: pointer; font-family: inherit; text-decoration: none;">#Spiritualgrowth</a></span></div>
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Vaijayanthi KMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00709649662447866587noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1259575802760095868.post-78618470739319158182019-12-07T14:13:00.000+05:302019-12-11T14:13:50.173+05:30Time for a broader perspective of your "Self"<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Beyond your identity (name, age, nationality, family, job, inclination, etc, etc,), do you know who you are? Even sustainability (and spiritual identity!) are identities we take on according to our likes, desires, influences, need to do "good" and share, ego, and past actions. Now, suppose, all of that is taken away from you - what would you have left?</div>
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In that context, where did you come from? Who are you? How long are you going to live? Where are you going to go after this? Ever thought about it?</div>
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It's very easy to answer all the above quickly from an intellectual standpoint made from knowledge obtained from books/such sources. However, "experiencing" this "knowledge" is more important than just understanding it from the "mind". Before religions got corrupted with power and human ego needs, their role in the society was to encourage individuals to pursue and seek this exact "experience". Now, most religions have become blockages rather than stepping stones.</div>
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As a result, the so-called "modern man", especially one living in urban areas with urban influences, feels proud to throw away their cultural and religious teachings (the real teaching and not the made-up/altered ones!) and call themselves "modern", delighted in his/her unencumbered state. Unfortunately, it's like throwing the baby with the bathwater!</div>
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Now, devoid of a soothing background of any cultural or religious or ancestral values, we are left to grapple with ourselves as our lifestyles get increasingly fast-paced, our work, societal and family pressures skyrocket, and our individual identities get stacked up dangerously as a cover-up looking like it might crumble at the slightest touch.</div>
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Fortunately, thanks to the many good souls who have taken it upon themselves to "awaken" the "modern man", we have so many schools and gurus now trying to teach ways to help people discover thy "Self" - whether it is meditation, yoga, self-introspection, energy work or any other activity that brings us closer to ourselves. Unfortunately, these schools and gurus are also facing the same pressures of the current time and end up either confusing us even more OR completely disillusioning us with their strict rules, compliance mandates and "almost-a-new-religion-in-the-making" kind of functioning!</div>
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So, where/who do we turn to then? Who can be our real guides who can help us know our "Self"?</div>
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And most importantly, why is it crucial and urgent to do this NOW (not when you get old, not next year, not tomorrow, but NOW)?</div>
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Vaijayanthi KMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00709649662447866587noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1259575802760095868.post-40723594980432991032019-12-04T14:11:00.000+05:302019-12-11T14:12:20.375+05:30Time for a broader perspective of Time<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1c1e21; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">All of us are well aware of the concept and importance of time in our lives – from our desires, wants and needs dictating our daily routines to weekly tasks to monthly ‘to-dos’ to annual planning – However, sadly, one’s perception of time is mostly confined to thinking within the limits of one’s own lifetime. And th</span><span class="text_exposed_show" style="background-color: white; color: #1c1e21; display: inline; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">at would be perhaps about 80, 90 or 100 years maximum in current times. By studying history, one may extend this to a few more hundred years. But that is about it.<br /><br />The ‘limited’ perception of time is one reason for apathy (including things like throwing garbage on street!) and many of the unethical (as per generic human standards but also, more importantly, our own) or unpleasant activities/ emotions/ feelings/ thoughts we let grow in our minds and lives. But it’s ‘time’ to wake up to a broader perspective of time.<br /><br />As we are all well aware, time is cyclic – the ‘wheel of time’ or ‘kaalachakra’ is a concept well ingrained in our minds from the times of watching Mahabharata on Doordarshan! But as we continue chasing our desires and living up to other’s rules, we lose sight of this ‘nature’ of time. Our perception of time becomes ‘limited’ to days, weeks, months, years, and one lifetime. For those that believe in reincarnation, the perception of time may well extend to many lifetimes – but that is a rarity.<br /><br />Belief or no belief, know that, in this cycle of time, we are now at a crucial juncture. Whether you want to think of it in terms of Hinduism/Buddhism that talks about the four yugas of Satya/Treta/Dwapara/Kali yuga, OR the Greek system of Golden/Silver/Bronze/Iron age, OR any other system that talks about “end times/ Apocalypse” and rebirth of the Earth, know that we are now in transition. The transition from the dark ages/iron ages/Kali yuga that we are currently living in to the Golden age or Satya yuga.<br /><br />Just take a look at some of the world events - from excess floods in one part of country to severe drought in another part of the same country, or raging forest fires whether in America or Australia, to the ice melting and real global warming threats to the world we live in - all of it seem to be orchestrating some sort of ‘destruction’. While human activity is certainly a reason for many of these ‘events’, you must know that this is also a result of the cycle of time. In other words, these are expected to happen as Mother Earth shakes off all the crap we have piled on her and goes through a cleansing cycle to be reborn – to usher in the Golden age.<br /><br />This is also a precious opportunity for all our souls to ‘cleanse’ itself of all the baggage it may be carrying from of all its births so far. As with all things connected to this particular way of perception of time on Earth, we cannot afford to miss this ‘opportunity’. If we do, we will simply be bystanders as the rest of the ‘awake’ humanity uses the chance to make the transition – and this is the best that can happen. The worst, of course, is the complete destruction of our soul – not our human body, not our ego identity, but the death of our very soul itself.<br /><br />In short, this is not the time to waste time on your worries and concerns and go chasing things in the external world. This is the time to have a ‘timeout’ to really consider what’s important for you, deep inside. And once you find that, do as your heart dictates.<br /><br />Are you doing that?<br /><br /><a class="_58cn" data-ft="{"type":104,"tn":"*N"}" href="https://www.facebook.com/hashtag/goldenage?epa=HASHTAG" style="color: #385898; cursor: pointer; font-family: inherit; text-decoration-line: none;">#GoldenAge</a> <a class="_58cn" data-ft="{"type":104,"tn":"*N"}" href="https://www.facebook.com/hashtag/timeperception?epa=HASHTAG" style="color: #385898; cursor: pointer; font-family: inherit; text-decoration-line: none;">#TimePerception</a> <a class="_58cn" data-ft="{"type":104,"tn":"*N"}" href="https://www.facebook.com/hashtag/ascension?epa=HASHTAG" style="color: #385898; cursor: pointer; font-family: inherit; text-decoration-line: none;">#Ascension</a> <a class="_58cn" data-ft="{"type":104,"tn":"*N"}" href="https://www.facebook.com/hashtag/spiritualgrowth?epa=HASHTAG" style="color: #385898; cursor: pointer; font-family: inherit; text-decoration-line: none;">#Spiritualgrowth</a></span></div>
Vaijayanthi KMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00709649662447866587noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1259575802760095868.post-80141157070601241502018-07-20T20:41:00.000+05:302018-07-20T21:52:48.938+05:30Parvathamalai - The hill of the Parashakti<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Just like Tiruvannamalai and Sathuragiri, Parvathamalai in Tamilnadu is another beautiful, spiritual refuge where one can get a few quiet moments to oneself to contemplate all about life. Only that is, if one doesn't get distracted by the plastic bottles, trash and various other litter that generously dots the hill.<br />
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Situated about 30 km from Tiruvannamalai, Parvathamalai is roughly 3500 - 4200 feet in height and is a magnificent mountain that raises her head tall in the entire region. The view from the top is mind-blowing - on one side, she looks at Arunachala and on another, the entire Javvadu hill range stretches out as green as grass on all sides. What a sight to behold for the brave aspirant who can climb up conquering his/her fear. That's right - the climb up Parvathamalai is an arduous task.<br />
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First, there are about 1100 man-made steps, then there are rough cut rocks made into steps supported by installed iron rods. These support structures were sponsored and installed by a group of devotees who formed a trust (called the "Triplicane Sri Paruvathamalai Adiyargal Thiruppani Sangam") themselves to raise funds and carry out the work. No amount of gratitude will be enough to thank them. The rock steps then slowly give way to bigger, more rough paths which finally lead to what you can easily call the most dangerous thing you might do in your life - you need to climb up an almost vertical boulder with just sparsely placed iron rods to pull yourself up. At one point, you will reach a particular ledge where you need to literally cling to the rock face while looking below into a deep spasm or look ahead into the beautiful lands and hills stretching out in front of you. If you don't shake with fear, you are definitely bound to shake with hysteria-induced laughter if you are a first-timer.<br />
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Once you reach the hilltop, the wind welcomes you in all his glory - ha, so much wind, so much wind that you might even be tempted to let yourself get carried away. Until I felt the winds of Parvathamalai, I never realized that I have been missing the wind dearly. He has been such an integral part of my life, having grown up next to a seashore - and I miss him so severely in the polluted urban space I live in right now. Once your heart settles - from all that fear, beauty, awe and the sheer magnificence and amazement that you have made it to the top, the little temple where Shiva and Bramharambigai reside await you.<br />
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Unlike other temples where there are priests performing poojas for you, the Parvathamalai temple is special - anyone can express their devotion and do alankarams, abhishekams or any poojais to the deities themselves. You are welcome to sit and meditate as well. It is a belief that there are many siddhars and great sages have lived on this hill, and many in fact still visit it in their sookshma sharira.<br />
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I don't know about the siddhars but my very gross human mind is disturbed at the sights I saw on my way up and down Parvathamalai last week. If you have read my post about <a href="http://vj13.blogspot.com/2017/03/sathuragiri-open-secrets-no-one-is.html" target="_blank">Sathuragiri</a>, you will know why. Earlier, the case with <a href="http://vj13.blogspot.com/2016/12/a-lesson-in-surrender.html" target="_blank">Tiruvannamalai inner path</a> was also the same. Fortunately, there's a ban on inner girivalam now - Arunachala is spared of human apathy. All of us are so consumed with our own lives, our own little worries and our own built-up little fantasies that one empty plastic bottle becomes such a burden that it needs to be thrown away - irrespective of whether you are in the midst of a city market or the most sacred of places you believe in. And, please, let's not even get into why use disposable plastic bottle in the first place - that argument is for another day.<br />
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Having done the climb, and carried my own (plastic) bottle, I can tell that it will weigh very heavily on you the moment the last drop of water leaves it. Let's be real. For a person for whom the next step itself is an effort (as is such climbs or girivalam, whether it is Sathuragiri, Tiruvannamalai or why even Kailash), carrying one extra load is just not logical. For the average person with awareness, the eyes search for a trash bin - perhaps for the next 100 steps. Don't find one? Utter a small prayer (maybe) and throw that bottle down wherever. No, I did not do that, am talking about how the mentality of the others who have done the act might have worked. And then there are the monkeys who are ever ready to snatch the bottles from you, carry them deep into the mountains - as the poor things are looking for water all the time. Net result? Trash all over - plastic water bottles, "Tata Glucose cans", plastic water satchets, candy wrappers, biscuit wrappers...and in some odd cases, even some left behind underwear!!<br />
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So, what can one do? What would you do? Remember you are already spent - obviously (maybe) you can attempt to churn the ocean and try to clean up on your way down. I did do it when I went on the inner girivalam and felt such a sense of love from Arunachala. So, if you are called to do it, please please do it. But not the average person - they wouldn't spare a glance at the bottles when they are coming down either (when it might be easier to carry an extra load). And don't tell me - let's ban the sale of water bottles. There are utterly poor village families who are relying on selling water, biscuits and other things at the foothills. There is no water or source of water on top of the hill - they depend entirely on rainwater which is extremely sparse in summer. Can't ban the sale of water bottles (till we find another sustainable, workable solution to package water in). How about banning people from going at all to the hills, unless they carry their own reusable water bottles OR swear in blood that they will bring back their trash (and others')? Fantastic - that would be the ideal solution.<br />
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But its not an ideal world. Not yet.<br />
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In the meantime, we can't sit and crib behind our computers either. For you see, armchair activism can be very compelling. Or human memory can be very weak - you feel so aghast at something one moment but a few moments later when your life calls you, you will forget the very thing that moved you in the first place. But if one gets an inspiration or a calling that seems to be from above, one can't ignore. Nope.<br />
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Here's giving birth to "<a href="https://www.facebook.com/Swacha-Malai-428363767665681" target="_blank">Swacha Malai</a>". A small effort at cleaning the hills, especially those that are battered by human ignorance and apathy. Let the trashers continue trashing till they learn better but let not the cleaners stop working.<br />
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If you have been in a similar situation, and didn't know how to contribute, perhaps you want to join hands with me and sponsor and give employment to a local person to undertake a regular clean up. If so, get in touch with me please - 98860 followed by 68649 is the number.<br />
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Vaijayanthi KMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00709649662447866587noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1259575802760095868.post-86568577231996853322017-09-04T13:58:00.002+05:302017-09-04T14:00:48.361+05:30Healthy Vegan Cookies (Made with Whole Wheat, Coconut Oil and Palm Sugar)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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I finally cracked the recipe for the perfect vegan version of the whole wheat cookie thanks to a recipe request from a friend. I am so thrilled that I couldn't stop myself from sharing it here!!</div>
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It turned out so crispy and so yummy...a delightful cross between coconut biscuit, butter biscuit, and choco chip cookies. A must try for sure.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6QyPHNGM9cUSewedL82thw_VKN5K9gFoktL6lIwkJwiMyEw7ZjoKzFWUiUSDh2TEyFkE92mGUTY4OPFxR5m55WbmN7QoiPb_arkNhFoeK12vx1AjB0CgzkBU3Y5fYh_6CoZwNTea5oHC6/s1600/WhatsApp+Image+2017-09-04+at+13.51.38.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="774" data-original-width="1032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6QyPHNGM9cUSewedL82thw_VKN5K9gFoktL6lIwkJwiMyEw7ZjoKzFWUiUSDh2TEyFkE92mGUTY4OPFxR5m55WbmN7QoiPb_arkNhFoeK12vx1AjB0CgzkBU3Y5fYh_6CoZwNTea5oHC6/s400/WhatsApp+Image+2017-09-04+at+13.51.38.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Ingredients</b><br />
* 1 cup wheat flour<br />
* <a href="tel:1234">1/2 - 3/4</a> cup powdered brown sugar or palm sugar (depending on taste preference). Can replace with Jaggery powder too<br />
* 1/3 cup Coconut oil<br />
* 1/2 Teaspoon salt<br />
* 1/2 Teaspoon baking soda<br />
* 1/2 Teaspoon baking powder<br />
* 1 Teaspoon vanilla essence (I don't use this as I am not sure what you get in the regular market is synthetic chemicals or the real Vanilla essence. I am just waiting for my Vanilla plant to start flowering to make my own essence!!)<br />
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Optional: 1/3 cup of walnuts or choco chips or other nuts. You may grind the nuts roughly along with the palm sugar to get a better texture instead of the nuts as is when you bite into the cookie.</div>
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<b>How to make:</b></div>
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1. Mix all ingredients together to the consistency of thick chapati dough.<br />
2. Make it into small balls and flatten slightly into cookie shapes. If balls don't form, add one spoon or more of water and try again.<br />
3. Preheat oven. Bake at 180° c for <a href="tel:1215">12-15</a> mins (Alter time according to the preference for softness or crispness and oven condition).<br />
4. Cookies will spread on being baked. So make small balls/flats.<br />
5. Once baked, cool for a few mins and then bite into the best vegan whole wheat cookies you have tasted in a while.</div>
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Vaijayanthi KMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00709649662447866587noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1259575802760095868.post-12110393233629440982017-03-27T16:30:00.001+05:302020-02-07T12:46:24.199+05:30Sathuragiri - Open secrets no one is going to tell you about <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<b>Please read this note before you decide to read the entire blog:</b><br />
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<i>Sathuragiri is a beautiful place but more than that, it has been described by most everyone as a "mystical" place for wonderful spiritual experiences. If you'd like to read some of these divine experiences, please head to <a href="https://koshasrini.blogspot.in/2013/09/blog-post_17.html" target="_blank">this</a>, <a href="http://templedarshan.blogspot.in/2013/04/my-hill-temple-yatra-to-sathuragiri-2011.html" target="_blank">this</a>, <a href="http://www.greatholidayideas.net/pilgrimage/sathuragiri-trek-to-land-of-siddhars-siddha-yoga.html" target="_blank">this</a> and <a href="http://www.divinespots.com/2013/05/siddha-locations-5-sathuragiri-hills.html" target="_blank">this</a> blog. From Siddhars (Mystic saints of South India known for their devotion to Shiva and skills in subjects such as astronomy, medicine, alchemy, etc.) appearing as dogs to guide people on the path....to visions and divine guidance in dreams, the picture one gets after going through all these resources and hearsay is that of a miraculous place on Earth where even the common man (read someone who is not even on the Sadhana path) may get blessed by the divine. The call to visit Sathuragiri and to be able to actually make it is something that is not in our control. Also, one needs to be extremely "aware" and "open" to actually experience anything, they say - whether a meeting with a Siddhar or some other divine experience. But once you have got your call, you can either loose yourself in devotion, be in the Now and get the divine blessings or you can choose to stay very much grounded, see the harsh reality and feel utter helplessness. My account of this trip and this hill is of the latter kind. So if you want to read a spiritual account, please go read the blogs I have linked to above - they are really wonderful and gives one so much hope as well as directions/tips on how to get to the hills, places/temples to visit, etc. On the other hand, if you'd like to be disillusioned, read on! </i><br />
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Our train pulled into the Virudunagar station at 4.30 in the morning, running an hour behind schedule. Virudunagar, a town 50 km South of Madurai in Tamil Nadu, was our gateway to the Sathuragiri hills, an offshoot of the Western Ghats well-known in these parts as the "Siddhargal Bhoomi" (meaning abode of the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Siddhar" target="_blank">Siddhars</a>). The actual base camp to the Sathuragiri hills was another hour or so drive from Virudunagar. So wasting no time, we went to a beautiful Mango Farm enroute to the hills for a quick refresh and breakfast. The idea was to start the "difficult" trek up the hill (7 or so odd kilometers one way) well ahead of the harsh afternoon sun. Well, that was not to be. Due to various reasons, we could begin our journey from the base camp only by 10.30 or so. By then, the early Summer Sun was out in all his glory, shining resplendent for the benefit of all beings, living and dying, plastic or otherwise.<br />
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A mandatory bag check later (in which nothing was really confiscated from our group except a matchbox), we took off with a bamboo pole in each of our hands to assist in the climb that was to come. The path starts off decently enough - stone steps painstakingly laid by the authorities (the workers actually) for about a kilometer or so to aid the seekers and give them comfort as "far" as possible. After that, the hills lay their beautiful grounds open - sharp rocks, narrow paths, deep drops, steep climbs and slippery boulders nestled amidst lovely vegetation, lush forests, mysterious underways and trickling streams. The path climbs up quickly as we gain altitude - apparently, we need to cross seven different hills before we actually get to the "Sathuragiri Hill" - a hill surrounded on all sides by other hills.<br />
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The first heart stopping moment comes - the "Vazhukai Parai" or the "Slippery Rock". The story goes that, in ancient times, when people used to carry oil for the lamps in the hill top, many of them slipped on this rock and met their creator and the oil spilt by them further made the rock even more slippery causing many more to meet their creators as well. Hmm, am not sure of the truth behind that story but one thing was for sure - it was a near 70 degree steep incline that looked like something straight out of a military rock climbing training camp!! Well, whether one has attended such a camp or not, there was no choice or alternate path to this Parai - so praying the Monkey God to give me strength, I just went straight at it without looking more than the next foot up. And that made all the difference to the climb for me and it turned out to be an easy one. Heaving a sigh of relief at having conquered that "difficult" one, one's hope was for a relatively easier path then on - well, not to be. It only seemed to get harder! Steeper climbs - though not necessarily slippery - uneven rock steps in which one might easily miss a foot and meet the creator! It looked like the entire terrain was made for mystical experiences - either in this realm if you are the blessed one or in the post-life realm!<br />
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Not to sound discouraging but the path was indeed difficult - not for the average Sita or Geetha or Ram or Shyam. But climb it, they did, the thousands of devotees who came in for the auspicious occasion of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pradosha" target="_blank">sani pradosham</a>. It was our sheer luck that we happened to visit the hill on that day, in the company of thousands of people, men, women and young children, lost in their sheer faith and devotion. Mothers carrying their young ones, old men struggling to put the next step forward, men in orange cloths sweeping the steps as they beg and climb, workers carrying heavy loads of rations and supplies on their heads for the shops/temples/mutts on the hill top....one need only look at others to get inspired and keep going. The magic was definitely in the air.... while the plastic was literally everywhere else!<br />
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It took us about 5 or 6 hours to reach the hill top. Struggling to put one foot forward after another, we climbed the final steps to the temple - only to find it extremely crowded with not a single gap to even take a peek at the Lord. Well, ingenuity was a skill all of us learnt early so bringing that handy, we caught a quick glimpse of the Abhishekam before we moved on to give our aching bodies a ground to lie on. But the many Annadhana mutts (where food is served free to all devotees) wouldn't have it... "Vanga, Shiva, Vanga, please have food" they went (Come in, Shiva, Come in) imploringly. Though we had our share of packed lunch, we had to step in, so beseeching was their request. And the food? Equally tasteful.<br />
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A full stomach, an aching body and an early morning wake up calls for an early shut down. But not before nature calls. So off we went searching for a place to relieve one self. In a hill, where nearly lakhs of devotees are known to come every fortnight, there was not a single clean toilet to be seen. The one lone toilet complex, with ten or so odd commodes, looked war-ravaged and not cleaned in the last hundred years. The human waste abounded, with not even a single fly in sight. Good news you might think. I would ask you to think otherwise - the waste was so old that even the flies have gone off elsewhere searching for fresh feed. Alright, one can't really ask for material comforts while they come seeking mystical experiences, I know. No problemo! Is there a bush behind which we can relieve ourselves? Sorry, out of the many thousands who climbed up along with you, at least a hundred odd are also looking for the same bush. And don't forget that you are not the first thousand to climb these parts. Hmm, close your eyes and nose and go back to the museum of shit. Done! So where do we deposit our "wipes"? Is there a dust bin in sight? Nope! Throw them to the wind and just hope the wind is not blowing in your direction lest it brings it right back to your face.<br />
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Night comes in and with it the much needed darkness - for those of us who couldn't muster enough dollars to pay for the museum visit. But one issue - is one allowed to pee and shit right next to a temple? Well, when nature calls, she calls - whether man decides to build a temple nearby or not, right? Right.<br />
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Chirping birds, the sound of faraway bellowing bears in the jungle and some cool breeze - A wonderful day dawns the next morning. Time for our trek down. Just to even think about how we will go down the same steep path sent a chill up our spines. While climbing up was somehow managed, climbing down promised to be a risky affair - one slip, one twist and gone with the wind one will be, along with the heavy hip pouches we were sporting.<br />
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Heavy pouches, you ask? Well, where else can one stash all that chikki/chocolate/biscuit wrappers we carefully kept back during the trek up? Not that it would have made a difference. What will a few tiny wrappers add to the million plastic waste that is already strewn all over the paths right? Unfortunately, our "consciousness" was of a different kind. Let the Siddhars wait! Look at that trash, it said. Should we pick it up? Should we initiate a clean up? But the body is already weary from the difficult trek - it will not take kindly to any additional load. Then what about all that plastic that is accumulated there, the heart cried. Is there even a tiny hope of a clean up? The mind boggled at the very thought of it.<br />
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When I went to <a href="http://vj13.blogspot.in/2016/12/a-lesson-in-surrender.html" target="_blank">Tiruvannamalai </a>a few months back and got lucky enough to visit the "banned" inner path, I understood why the authorities had banned it within just a few minutes of entering the path. In the "so-called" banned path (which has been banned for more than 5-6 years now), the plastic wrappers were still strewn around - in spite of the repeated attempts of the forest department and the many volunteers who regularly picked up the left over trash. The "devotees" who brave the ban and still come in (like me!!) must be really the devote kind, right? But then why would they still throw their plastic water bottles, plastic wrappers, chocolate covers on their beloved Arunachala? It's not the devotees, you say? Well, the Arunachala is equally dear to the locals, right? In spite of that...in spite of all that ban and rules in Tiruvannamalai, it stands today as a pale representation of it's earlier self - the fringes of Arunachala covered in trash and plastic. A tearful sight. And Kailash? Let me not even go there lest I remember the sound of plastic prayer flags beating gleefully even as the Himalayan wind tried to sweep off all the trash!<br />
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Sathuragiri is heading the same route. She is crying desperately for attention, even as a lakh devotees climb up her every fortnight looking for solace and blessing. She is mourning the dumbheadness even as she blesses and gives her children the "mystical" experiences they seek. She is reeling under flying plastic, carelessly thrown trash, contaminated water bodies, long pathways lined with non-decomposing human waste - even as she mercifully feeds them and gives them her abode to rest. While the Siddhars are meditating lost in their devotion, the other mortals are equally lost in their devotion while looking to their immediate conveniences. Before long, am afraid, the Hills will not be known for any "mystical" experiences - rather, they will stand tall as a witness to the destruction mankind is capable of in the name of faith and devotion.<br />
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A very very harsh recount of my experience. While they asked me to be "aware" and "open" to mystical experiences and meetings with Siddhars, never did I imagine that my "awareness" will be of the trash mounds and human excreta.<br />
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My heart laments - How do we save her? How do we get people to stop trashing her? How do we get the government to take some measure at providing proper sanitation at the hill top? How do we educate the locals about plastic and help them fight for their own land? How, how, how?<br />
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Where do I even start?<br />
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While the urban groups are fighting to bring in awareness in the cities, our villages are slowly going to the trash. How do I save Shiva from the trash?<br />
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Vaijayanthi KMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00709649662447866587noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1259575802760095868.post-3046204806862010352016-12-26T11:42:00.001+05:302016-12-26T12:16:56.956+05:30You are the light of the world<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I was fortunate enough to attend a faith appreciation workshop at the <a href="http://en.heartfulness.org/" target="_blank">Heartfulness</a> mediation center this Christmas and I am so glad that I got this opportunity. Though I grew up in a predominant brahminical environment, I have always "known" Lord Jesus thanks to my early schooling when my headmistress "Ms. Rose" served as a huge example of inspiration, generosity, and 'public figure of respect' (though of course the school never ever did try to convert us or anything like that!). I have had some wonderful wonderful friends and neighbors who follow the Christian faith who have been the very epitome of joy, love and grace along the course of my life. I've also celebrated Christmas in my own way many times. One particular instance stands out in my mind....I must have been about 10 or so when I decided that I am being greatly deprived of celebrating the best festival of the year and that I must do something about it. So up I came up with a secret Christmas celebration plan - gathered all my friends in the garden, hung some nice hand made stars on the trees, pleaded mom to buy us some plum cake from the store, and lo, we had the best Christmas party in town set amidst some lovely greenery, wonderful smell of flowers, and a feeling of deep happiness. Oh, what joy that was - to finally have my own stars and celebrate Christmas (though I doubt if I really knew what Christmas was back then!!). I have also heard and read stories of Jesus, his many miracles and in recent times parallels of his life with Lord Krishna.<br />
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But I have always balked at reading the Bible. I have been very wary of words such as 'satan', 'sin', 'temptation', and 'evil'. They conjured up feelings of fear, suffering and negativity rather than the one of joy, abundance and positivity that I am used to in my own faith (or rather the way my faith was introduced and instilled in me by my grand parents, parents and my society through the beautiful and joyful stories of Krishna and Rama). I have also been witness to the scare and 'shared opinions' on mass conversions. So while Lord Jesus was someone I highly respected and 'believed in' (as in I kind of instinctively 'knew' him to be 'true' as much as my own Krishna or Rama), the Christian faith itself is something I viewed with suspicion and caution. So whenever I came across copies of Bibles in hotel night stands, or read the quotes outside churches or saw them on car rear glasses, I did not pay much attention to them. For, I thought, that they after all will be filled with words meant to 'caution' and 'scare' than 'encourage' and 'enlighten'. But all that changed this weekend when were given this quote to interpret and understand in our workshop.<br />
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<b><i>“You are the light of the world. A city set on a hill cannot be hidden. Nor do people light a lamp and put it under a basket, but on a stand, and it gives light to all in the house. In the same way, let your light shine before others, so that they may see your good works and give glory to your Father who is in heaven."
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When I read these lines, I felt a profound sense of truth and an instinctive understanding, a sort of 'familiarity', a realization that indeed the Divine is in all of us and it is but just waiting to be given an opportunity to shine through. Just a few days back, I had read this blog on <a href="http://isha.sadhguru.org/blog/lifestyle/total-giving-total-living/" target="_blank">"Total Giving, Total Living"</a> by Sadhguru and it had struck a chord with me. As human beings, we are always calculating, measuring, wondering - either the materials, our emotions or our responses - how much am I giving, how much am I receiving, am I receiving less, are people loving me less, am I getting enough attention, am I doing too much, so on and so forth. Where is the grace? Where is the 'expectation less' giving? Even if we give 'without expectation', aren't we mentally patting ourselves on the back and feeling 'good' for being a 'do-gooder'? Is that bad? Who is the 'one' actually giving and who is the 'one' feeling good? If I give you what you desperately need, and I say not one word in acknowledgement of that act lest you feel indebted, but I secretly appreciate myself in the deep recess of my mind, and I feel soooo good, am I the one who "gave" you what you needed or are you the one who "gave" me what I needed? How do I give with a capacity where I do not even think 'I am giving' - the operative here being the "I". I guess that's the state one needs to work towards - to remove the I, to dissolve the I and to let the pure light of divine shine through. How does one "let our light shine"?<br />
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So many questions to ponder and so many thoughts to work through.<br />
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But coming back to the quote from the bible, I felt kind of startled - to know that such pearls of wisdom have been masked amidst words such as the one I mentioned above (which obviously I have taken a deep dislike towards!). Then I realized, perhaps it's the language and the time. It's the language that was used when Jesus lived and the idioms and generalizations of his time. Maybe those are the ones I am not liking and perhaps I should set aside my reservations with it and read the Bible. And as for Jesus, I think I should get to know him better - to give and to give so unconditionally, what must it have taken him (when I see him as a human, just like one of us, who walked and talked hundred of years ago) and what must he have done to let the light shine forth. Jesus has become an inspiration in my mind today - not as a Lord, God, or someone up there in heaven, but as someone who I can strive to be like, much like my <a href="http://shrisaibabasansthan.org.in/publications/shri-sai-satcharitra-in-english/" target="_blank">Shirdi Sai and his life.</a> Or the <a href="http://isha.sadhguru.org/blog/yoga-meditation/history-of-yoga/who-is-shiva-meaning/" target="_blank">Adiguru Shiva</a>.<br />
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And by some quirk of destiny, in the evening, I came upon a copy of the Bhagavad Gita which was opened to this <a href="http://www.bhagavad-gita.org/Gita/verse-10-04.html" target="_blank">exact page and verse</a> that went<br />
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<b><i>buddhir jnanam asammohah ksama satyam damah samah</i></b></div>
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<b><i>sukham duhkam bhava bhutanam matta eva prthag-vidhah</i></b></div>
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<b><i>ahimsa samata tustis tapo danam yaso yasah</i></b></div>
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<b><i>bhavanti bhava bhutanam matta eva prthag-vidhah</i></b></div>
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In essence, what the above words state is that everything arises from him and manifests in individuals as per their actions and merits.<br />
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There seems to be a connection here somewhere - between my understanding of the quote from the Bible and this verse from Bhagavad Gita though I am not exactly sure what it is right now.<br />
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In any case, let us strive to let our lights shine through - whether it is Jesus, Krishna, Rama or Shiva who inspires you. Let us seek the highest that we know.<br />
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A wonderful holiday season to you all!
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Vaijayanthi KMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00709649662447866587noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1259575802760095868.post-45043790841856921612016-12-16T11:13:00.000+05:302016-12-16T17:11:29.359+05:30A lesson in Surrender <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
A few months before I began planning my <a href="http://vj13.blogspot.in/2016/12/my-once-in-lifetime-trip-to-kailash.html" target="_blank">Mount Kailash trip</a>, a thought came to me (or someone must have told me) that I must undertake a similar Parikrama (or a Girivalam as we call it) of the mighty Arunachala. A Girivalam before going to Kailash and a Girivalam after coming back from Kailash - this came as an almost clear cut instruction for me. I decided I must do this and off we went to Tiruvannamalai in July. The plan was to start the Girivalam early in the morning so that we could complete it well before mid-day since we were doing it barefoot. But as luck would have it, we could start off only by 6.30 or so. Everything happens for a reason as they say (and I firmly believe) and so there was a reason for our delay in the morning that day too which we wouldn't realize until later in the day.<br />
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The Girivalam outer path is about 14 kilometres and winds around the Arunachala hill. As per the Ramana Maharishi's guide to Girivalam AND <a href="http://www.agasthiar.org/AUMzine/0009-gv.htm" target="_blank">this site on Agasthiar</a>, one could start the Girivalam from either the Ramanashram or the Brahma Linga shrine that's inside the main Arunachala temple, exit the temple from the south gopuram entrance and thence forth go around the hill in a clock wise direction, stopping at all the eight lingams. The eight lingams are built in each of the eight directions by the dikpalakas (i.e. guardian deities who guard the directions) and are named after them - Indra Lingam in the east, Agni in the southeast, Yama in the south, Niruthi in the southwest, Varuna in the west, Vayu in the northwest, Kubera in the north, and the Esanya lingam in the northeast (Source: Guide to Giripradakshina) - that's also the order in which you will come up on their shrines during the Girivalam. One must do the Girivalam with a single mind focused on devotion, constantly keeping his or her gaze on the Arunachala, and be silent and meditative as much as possible. As Ramanamaharishi had said, one must also not hurry through this entire sadhana as if one simply needs to accomplish a goal - one must walk as if one were a nine month long pregnant lady holding an oil lamp in her hands - such must be one's pace and care while doing the Girivalam.<br />
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<img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoIPHaDGfY0QRMC8aex660yWZw6v8fAzsHunqQlKKckswnEMN0LGzDV2IyDHqopBB03LhIDjfLNo-ewAyKePFgqE7Swl7ApdfCg5tos2IQdItqjvWeiLGGJZIRA1Dpid_PDWZ3RcWUicY/s640/0a.JPG" /></div>
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Arunachala darshan from Isanya Ashram <br />
<b>Photo & title Credit: </b>http://arunachalagrace.blogspot.in/ </div>
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Overall, the Girivalam is designed and meant to be an exercise in withdrawing into oneself to enable the possibility of going deeper into our consciousness and experiencing the 'Brahman'. It is a sadhana that can help us realize the true reality of nature, our connectedness with it (the cosmos/creation), and our oneness with it while keeping the Arunachala as one's axis or anchor. The Kailash parikrama is also pretty much done with the same intention - the only difference being here in Tiruvannamalai, one uses the Arunachala as our focal point while at Kailash, it is the Mount Kailash. You will also know that <a href="http://sacredsites.com/asia/india/tiruvanamalai.html" target="_blank">Tiruvannamalai</a> is one of the "Bhuta Lingams" (i.e. places where the Divine/Shiva has manifested itself as one of the five elements) and represents the Fire element. In line with that, the entire geography/area is also one where the temperatures soar and heat is a constant companion. In contrast, Kailash is exactly the opposite - with temperatures dipping below zero degree Celsius. Having born in the Dravidian land, it is only right that I pay my respects to the Fire before I can get the strength to embrace the cold. So there I was, on that fine day in July, in Tiruvannamalai to do my Girivalam and seek his blessings to help me experience the 'oneness' at Kailash.<br />
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View of the main Arunachala Temple as seen from the way to Virupaksha Caves</div>
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We had been to Tiruvannamalai just a few months before this trip, perhaps sometime in last December, when we had taken the longest time ever to complete the Girivalam. We had started again early in the morning (5.45ish) and had hoped to complete the Girivalam well before the noon Sun hits our head. But alas, that plan was not to be then too. Right at the beginning of our Girivalam, we had the wonderful experience of seeing the <a href="http://arunachalagrace.blogspot.in/2013/01/meeting-with-mooku-podi-swami.html" target="_blank">Mookupodi Siddhar</a> at Seshadri Ashram. Though we had no idea about this particular Siddhar then, when we entered the Seshadri Ashram, we saw a huge group of people gathered around an old man who seemed to be behaving a bit eccentricly (I am sorry to use this word but not able to describe it in any other way!). As anyone would do in such circumstances, we also joined the group of people and started watching this senior who made his way to the front of the Seshadri Ashram and sat down right in the middle of the front courtyard to have his breakfast. Post that, he flung the empty plate and tumbler a little violently and rose to disappear in the direction of the inner portions of the ashram - perhaps to a resting area.<br />
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The entire episode was a little nerve wrecking for me as his violent behavior was a little scary. Yet, people seemed to be pushing themselves towards him while still keeping a respectful distance. Wondering why, I found out that people were hoping to be beaten by him (he carries a walking stick of sorts) - his beating is supposed to herald good luck (as that would mean he takes away some of your bad karma for himself or something like that - I do not know about it fully to write the correct explanation here). In spite of my fear, I simply couldn't tear myself away from that crowd, overcome by a morbid kind of curiosity and hope - I have no clue for what! Thankfully, he did not beat anyone (or me!!) that day during that hour or so that we spent gathered around him. Strangely though, we were left with a beautiful feeling of elation (maybe all that adrenaline rush from the fear says my logical brain!). In retrospect, now that I think about it, the elation seemed to have stayed with us the rest of the day!! I think I was quiet drunk with happiness almost the entire day - in spite of the tiring walk of 14 km, a hot sun overhead, and the burning tar road underneath our bare feet (it was past 1 in the afternoon by the time we completed the Girivalam as we lost quiet sometime in this episode!). At one point, we were singing joyously totally unmindful of the aching legs and back! I even rushed back to the market after we completed the Girivalam and came back to our hotel - to buy some native seeds for my gardening friends back home - to the shock of my mother in law who wondered where I am getting all that energy and enthusiasm from! Strange, indeed.<br />
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So, with this memory of my immediate past experience of the Girivalam, I was supremely confident that I can very well once again undertake the parikrama in barefoot and come back none the worse. Well, well, the day had something else in store for me - least did I know! As they say about the best laid plans of men and mice, yadah, yadah!!<br />
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Due to the delay in getting some things done in the morning, on that day in July, we could start our Girivalam only by 6.15 or so. Mindful of the fact that one must try to be in a meditative mode and not hurry through the exercise, I did not let myself set a fast pace initially however otherwise my logical mind urged me to (not my body though - it seemed to want the opposite!). We lingered for a few minutes in Seshadri Ashram hoping for a repeat darshan of Mr. Mookupodi Siddhar but well obviously not as he is a wandering ascetic! The rest of the Girivalam was quiet uneventful so to speak - i.e. until about the time we came to the Vayu Lingam. It must have been about 11.30 or nearing 12 by then I think and by that time the late Summer Sun was out in his full radiating glory. The tar road underneath glistened with a "I-seem-like-am-melting-but-am-not" look and the trees that were giving shade till then seemed to be becoming more and more sparse as we approached the last of the two lingams. The hot road seemed to stretch ahead into a vast expanse of barrenness devoid of any shade as far as the eyes could see - the sidewalks lined with tiles were no better, broken in places and as hot as the tar road if not more.<br />
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Where must one step, where can this by-now-rubbed-raw feet find some respite, where is there shade - my entire mind was filled with thoughts of only these questions. Arunachala disappeared (save for the by-now-habit chanting), the intent of Girivalam disappeared, all other thoughts disappeared - it was just the Sun, the road and my screaming feet. I started picking up my pace hoping the speed will help lessen the time my feet rests on the hot road, I started trying to fantasize about Kailash hoping the mind can be fooled into thinking the road is not so hot, I kept looking up at the Sun hoping that he will shine a little less to provide some respite - alas, not to be. It only seemed to be getting hotter and hotter. I started running - never mind the protest of my stiff back and joints and raw feet - and the thought of funny looks people were throwing at me. But I couldn't keep at it. I decided to slow down but where do I step - where are the trees, where are the trees, where are the trees, screamed my body. I then started throwing my shawl on the ground, stepping on it for a second's respite, then picking it up, and running another 4 - 5 feet, throwing it down again, and repeat. But that was not happening too. It wasn't this difficult last time, I remembered thinking, I was barefoot then too. It wasn't summer, said someone in my mind.<br />
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What do I do, I cried - I must complete the Girivalam at any cost - I cannot afford to quit - my entire Kailash sankalpa depends on this, my crooked, stupid mind came up with a dumb reasoning - if I am able to complete this Girivalam successfully, I will not have any problems in doing the Kailash trip, it bemoaned. Oh, lord, what have you in store for me? Somehow managing to come out of the Kubera Lingam and it's wonderful shade, I dragged myself to the Esanya Lingam. Just keep walking, just keep walking became my chant - remember Dory of Finding Nemo? Just keep swimming, just keep walking - my mind was in chaos, trying desperately to distract itself but helplessly finding itself back on the road however much I tried. I can't, no I must, how can I, no you must, I will die, no you might just faint, can I sit and drag myself? The bum might not feel as much heat as the feet?<br />
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Oh, what a kaleidoscope of useless thoughts. Just keep walking, just keep walking, Arunachala! Arunachala, where are you one needs you?! Just keep walking.....no, I can't. I just can't. Not anymore. By then, I must have been just some 700-800 metres short of the Esanya Lingam,the last of the shrines in the Girivalam path though of course one still needs to come to the main Arunachala temple to complete the Girivalam. I wasn't sure if my body gave up first or my mind. The next thing I know, an auto appears out of nowhere, my husband rushes me into it, and zoom, I seem to have been transported to the coolest place on Earth - I am inside the Esanya Lingam. Fully conscious yes but utterly dejected, beaten and disappointed immensely in myself. How could I have given up? What happened to my will power? Where was "I"? What was "I" thinking? How can "I" give up? "I" was strong, "I" could do it last time, "I" gave up this time. I sat down and closed my eyes in the pretext of prayer and I had no other go than to let it all go. I tried to control myself, conscious of the others around me but not to be. I sobbed, I cried, I beseeched. Why, why, why? Why couldn't "I"? Tears flowed uncontrolled as I went so deep inside myself in misery and desolation that I lost consciousness of my surroundings. A strange peace filled me - the calm that comes after the storm - all is over, give up the "I" - then "you" need no more feel desolate. "You" need no more feel disappointed. "You" need no more feel like a failure. Give up the "I" and surrender. Find the joy, find the happiness in dissolving the "I" and feel the inevitability of life.<br />
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That day, I got the closest to "I" ever was to God I think. Broken, I felt complete in him. Defeated, I felt victorious in hearing his voice. Lost, I found myself consoled. A lesson in surrender it was. Short lived but the memory offers me hope. I yearn for more and more of it. Arunachala has become my hope, to find myself, loose 'myself'.<br />
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Since then, many wonderful things have happened. My Kailash trip happened (and boy, was it the best thing that happened to me or what?). I also returned to Tiruvannamalai early this month to complete my 'after Kailash' parikrama, did the outer Girivalam (sans the egoistic confidence) and also got the fortune to do the inner Girivalam (oh, what a blessing that really was and what a miracle). While that day in Arunachala in July was one day of surrender and loosing myself, the entire Kailash parikrama was also 15 days full of surrender, loosing myself in the love of devotion, and floating in a sea of happiness. I am eternally grateful to whatever happened this year as I keep hoping to surrender the "I" completely.<br />
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Here, let me leave you with a few pictures of Arunachala (and its foothills) that I took from the inner Girivalam:<br />
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A beautiful plant enroute Tiruvannamalai that captured my heart</div>
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Inner Path - Girivalam</div>
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Rough, Thorny and Peaceful</div>
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Marks made by benevolent souls to guide the pilgrims on the Inner Path</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYTkR76RhVRLe7cmr6VJIeEICtGvg00mmwqbiTRzJFPOFTBc7dydwS_3esjl2eJ4G-EBE_H1s4OsLLvlIvEIq_0UgDULLC1exABvWU2F2pBCLsOtMYpQHKAGLlbOIBx1V-MXtfUoN9-6k/s1600/IMG_20161126_135522.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYTkR76RhVRLe7cmr6VJIeEICtGvg00mmwqbiTRzJFPOFTBc7dydwS_3esjl2eJ4G-EBE_H1s4OsLLvlIvEIq_0UgDULLC1exABvWU2F2pBCLsOtMYpQHKAGLlbOIBx1V-MXtfUoN9-6k/s400/IMG_20161126_135522.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The Nandi darshan from Inner Path</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF86g2LFVm31v3IM881Eq7wUJQ_bDrHGjGkNqVSDYqBx1-CO8S-VxOut4FJxFlq_s_SSttip-QT-gehMdAnP5Zxvczl7sWSwccP0aRTYURjFBFiXbI8fy4VA2tzWz_dr29FXw7Ic6ZCg8/s1600/IMG_20161126_140338.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF86g2LFVm31v3IM881Eq7wUJQ_bDrHGjGkNqVSDYqBx1-CO8S-VxOut4FJxFlq_s_SSttip-QT-gehMdAnP5Zxvczl7sWSwccP0aRTYURjFBFiXbI8fy4VA2tzWz_dr29FXw7Ic6ZCg8/s400/IMG_20161126_140338.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Beautiful, pure white shells littered on the Inner Path - I didn't want to touch it for some reason for a closer shot! Strange, the presence of these here. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitW0LuBPcozOYCHvfSEeVVRxhsfKB8Xv9lsJuu5Enk0JBWQULizhLHQ6jn5l1L0bLLKxoN672FFaxQlUk7fOLzlCot0aj_nsjJlLfOSWao2YGuNkdL_3UF5eL_eXhM8TdJDy7nG779D4o/s1600/IMG_20161126_141507.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitW0LuBPcozOYCHvfSEeVVRxhsfKB8Xv9lsJuu5Enk0JBWQULizhLHQ6jn5l1L0bLLKxoN672FFaxQlUk7fOLzlCot0aj_nsjJlLfOSWao2YGuNkdL_3UF5eL_eXhM8TdJDy7nG779D4o/s400/IMG_20161126_141507.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Some sort of worship site - though I couldn't find out whose</div>
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I think this must be the Kalyani (Pond) behind the Kaatu Shiva Temple</div>
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The marks on the Inner Path :)</div>
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The end of the Inner Path leads straight to Pachaiammal Temple - Oh, I felt so blessed chancing upon her</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU_8Z_lezginWNnOx3sjHYgAOkka-Ia4WpjKRyzPU6TdxKCIubZepOj80IZwfnypr5f_2fbuVZ2gOrBFGEKutyYqswb2PDoZ-MRFOk89NVvFYLGmBy_TbRbeAZboXcnuUyUFIxfiXdVy0/s1600/IMG_20161202_101140.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU_8Z_lezginWNnOx3sjHYgAOkka-Ia4WpjKRyzPU6TdxKCIubZepOj80IZwfnypr5f_2fbuVZ2gOrBFGEKutyYqswb2PDoZ-MRFOk89NVvFYLGmBy_TbRbeAZboXcnuUyUFIxfiXdVy0/s640/IMG_20161202_101140.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Beautiful Temple Courtyard and its Guardians at the Pachaiammal Temple</div>
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Note: Girivalam through the Inner Path is banned by the Forest Department and for good reason at that. We found so much litter and plastic spoiling the beautiful and serene landscape - the heart cried at the insensitivity and apathy of human beings - calling themselves pilgrims. God save them!</div>
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Vaijayanthi KMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00709649662447866587noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1259575802760095868.post-36183277410436329532016-12-16T10:54:00.002+05:302016-12-16T14:59:33.040+05:30My once in a lifetime trip to Kailash! <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I had the opportunity to visit Nepal (Muktinath) and Tibet (Mount Kailash) in August 2016 and it has been the best trip of my life so far.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8d653lJMgOTKSWFLHttLS8kz6Y5F4fbuR-8FUTkmJZrsDlveQwcgEDlbu_aESCTI1dHbpzxZvmvMzirPmM2cYGIMpq0an86aqn4SjxHSivVfB7sz6R1U_pqdMhtJZBVMA9lqpnLmIDSA/s1600/IMG_20160825_121237_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8d653lJMgOTKSWFLHttLS8kz6Y5F4fbuR-8FUTkmJZrsDlveQwcgEDlbu_aESCTI1dHbpzxZvmvMzirPmM2cYGIMpq0an86aqn4SjxHSivVfB7sz6R1U_pqdMhtJZBVMA9lqpnLmIDSA/s640/IMG_20160825_121237_HDR.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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At the foothills of Mount Kailash @ Dirapuk</div>
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Here's my experience through it all:<br />
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<div style="background-color: white; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; position: relative; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "calligraffitti";"><a href="http://vj13.blogspot.in/2016/07/when-mountains-call.html" target="_blank">When the mountains call </a><span id="goog_1815622574"></span><span id="goog_1815622575"></span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"></a></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; position: relative; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "calligraffitti";"><a href="http://vj13.blogspot.in/2016/08/day-1-body-is-raring-to-go.html" target="_blank">Day 1: The body is raring to go!</a></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; position: relative; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "calligraffitti";"><a href="http://vj13.blogspot.in/2016/08/kathmandu-to-pokhara-two-eyes-just-aren.html" target="_blank">Day 2 (Part 1) - Kathmandu to Pokhara - two eyes just aren't enough!</a></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; position: relative; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "calligraffitti";"><a href="http://vj13.blogspot.in/2016/08/day-2-part-2-pokhara-treat-to-senses.html" target="_blank">Day 2 (Part 2): Pokhara - a treat to the senses!</a></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; position: relative; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "calligraffitti";"><a href="http://vj13.blogspot.in/2016/08/day-3-part-1-for-love-of-kali-gandaki.html" target="_blank">Day 3 Part 1: For the love of the Kali Gandaki and Upper Mustang</a></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; position: relative; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "calligraffitti";"><a href="http://vj13.blogspot.in/2016/08/day-3-part-2-for-love-of-kali-gandaki.html" target="_blank">Day 3 Part 2: For the love of the Kali Gandaki river and Upper Mustang</a></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; position: relative; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "calligraffitti";"><a href="http://vj13.blogspot.in/2016/08/day-4-part-1-muktinath.html" target="_blank">Day 4 Part 1: Muktinath, a dream come through</a></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; position: relative; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "calligraffitti";"><a href="http://vj13.blogspot.in/2016/08/day-4-part-2-by-kali.html" target="_blank">Day 4 Part 2: By the Kali in search of Shaligrams</a></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; position: relative; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "calligraffitti";"><a href="http://vj13.blogspot.in/2016/08/day-5-hiking-to-apple-capital-of-nepal.html" target="_blank">Day 5: Hiking to the Apple capital of Nepal</a></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; position: relative; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "calligraffitti";"><a href="http://vj13.blogspot.in/2016/08/day-6-flying-high-in-sky.html" target="_blank">Day 6: Flying high in the Sky</a></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; position: relative; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "calligraffitti";"><a href="http://vj13.blogspot.in/2016/08/day-6-visiting-universal-mother-in-her.html" target="_blank">Day 7: Visiting the Devi at her abode at Manakamna</a></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; position: relative; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "calligraffitti";"><a href="http://vj13.blogspot.in/2016/08/day-8-impressions-of-thamel-bhakapur.html" target="_blank">Day 8: Impressions of Thamel, Bhakapur, and Kathmandu</a></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; position: relative; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "calligraffitti";"><a href="http://vj13.blogspot.in/2016/08/day-8-mount-everest-here-i-come.html" target="_blank">Day 8: Mount Everest, here I come!</a></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; position: relative; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "calligraffitti";"><a href="http://vj13.blogspot.in/2016/08/day-9-visit-to-jal-narayan-and.html" target="_blank">Day 9: Visit to Jal Narayan and Swayambunath</a></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; position: relative; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "calligraffitti";"><a href="http://vj13.blogspot.in/2016/08/day-10-pasupathinath-national-diety-of.html" target="_blank">Day 10: Pasupathinath, the national diety of Nepal</a></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; position: relative; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "calligraffitti";"><a href="http://vj13.blogspot.in/2016/08/day-11-trying-traditional-newari-food.html" target="_blank">Day 11: Trying traditional Newari food at Patan, Kathmandu</a></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; position: relative; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "calligraffitti";"><a href="http://vj13.blogspot.in/2016/09/kailash-kailash-kailash.html" target="_blank">Kailash, Kailash, Kailash! (Day 1 - 15)</a></span></div>
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I hope I would be able to write more about how I planned the trip, how much it cost me, my itinerary, my packing list and so on and so forth - so that it may help someone who wants to undertake a similar trip. Till then, take a look at my blogs and shoot me an email to a drop of wisdom at g mail if you have any specific questions!</div>
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Vaijayanthi KMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00709649662447866587noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1259575802760095868.post-12661378571398480392016-09-14T13:51:00.000+05:302016-09-21T09:54:05.362+05:30Kailash, Kailash, Kailash! <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<i><b>“Send your heart to Kailash and the rest of you will follow naturally”
</b>said Sadhguru. These were the exact words and the belief in them that carried me through the many turmoils and doubts that raged inside me during the course of my yatra to Kailash. Of course, in hindsight, I realize my fears were baseless, my health just fine and his grace limitless. Shambho! </i><br />
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Unlike what I hear from most others, Kailash wasn’t really
my long held dream or aspiration. I must have decided that I will attempt this
journey only late last year or so when I chanced upon the Sacred Walks video on
the Kailash Manasarovar yatra by Isha Foundation. One look at that video and I
knew I must go to Kailash, and only with Sadhguru (Isha) at that and no one
else. So it is really surprising to me, in retrospect, that I have gone to
Kailash and am back sitting in front of my laptop trying to capture my
experiences and journey so that I can relive them time and again. It is with a
kind of disbelief, a kind of amazement, that I must say all of it seems like
a fantastic dream one wakes up from suddenly. A dream one wants to continue
being in, a dream one doesn’t want to wake up from actually, a dream one wants to get
lost in forever. </div>
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Kailash! am not sure to what credit I deserve this grace, to what
goodness that I got to experience this rebirth, to what joy that I got this all
so easily (or so it seems to me). I feel like a lucky winner who got a last
minute chance entry to the most important event of her life! <o:p></o:p></div>
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The other day, about a week or so after my return from Kathmandu,
when I was still in the daze of Kailash, two words leapt at me from a hoarding –
Cosmic Womb – and I realized that is exactly what Kailash and the journey to him has been for me. A rebirth or an incubation of sorts where one gets to enter
her mother’s womb once more – to feel utterly secure, cushioned, and loved to
bits, to feel light and free of all the worldly burdens and responsibilities
that one carries, to feel oh so close to one’s creator, to feel one with the
divine, to feel bliss. The 7 day lead up journey to Kailash, the day trekking
up to the North face, and finally the day spent gazing at wonder at his feet. I
remember myself, desperately trying to commit every single thing to my memory - the magnificent face of Kailash, the cold Himalayan air, the sound of water
gently rushing down by the river, the red monastery on the opposite bank, the
yellow flowers at my feet, the ease of meditation, the feeling of a million blessings,
and Shambho. Oh Shambho!<o:p></o:p></div>
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I feel at a great inability to capture it all into words, especially the feelings. I
can only wish for a similar experience for you so that you can understand and
feel the same blessings as I did (or more). You must attempt this journey
definitely without fail – this journey which is more internal than external
really, this pilgrimage that will make you question everything you believe to
be true, this discovery that will bring things to a higher perspective. Please
do try to undertake this yatra and feel it for yourself – that is the only thing of any significance that I can share by way of my experience. However, let me try to note down whatever I can in case they help you in anyway to plan your trip. <o:p></o:p><br />
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At the onset, few details about the overall trip:<br />
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<li>I went with Isha Foundation as part of their Kailash Manasarovar Sacred Walks program. No, Sadhguru did not travel with us as much as I would have loved that and wished for it :) He, however, did spend about 30-45 minutes with us at Darchen (Kailash base camp) for a brief Satsang.</li>
<li>We went to Kailash through the Lhasa route; we fly from Kathmandu to Lhasa (in Tibet/China, about 1.5 hours flight), halt and acclimatize for a day next day, and then day after journey by bus to Shigatse (6-7 hours), halt the night and then next day again by bus to Saga (8-9 hours), halt for the night and then the next day via Manasarovar to Darchen (base of Kailash; one can view the South face of Kailash also called the Aghora mukha). And finally, on Day 8 of our trip (after one day halt at Darchan), we trek up to the North face (also called the Vamadeva at Dirapuk), stay the night and a large part of the next day at his feet. We returned the same way next day (instead of proceeding further to Dolma Pass and completing the full parikrama) and follow the same route back to Kathmandu. Only, we halted for two nights at Manasarovar for a beautiful and magical experience on the way. </li>
<li>The trip was a total of 15 days - from Day 1 afternoon at Kathmandu to Day 15 noon back to Kathmandu. We stayed at the best of hotels wherever possible (that's the Isha way) and had all the material comforts up until Darchen. After that, the accommodations become quiet basic and nature calls are in true nature! Though initially a bit difficult, one can quickly get used (and addicted) to baring and doing it all right out in the open :P</li>
<li>The reason why we did not attempt a full parikrama, as is typical for any Kailash yatra, are many as explained by Sadhguru/Isha - one of them being that what's more important (and easier) is to meditate and soak in the energies of the Kailash where its visible (I understand one will loose sight of the great mountain as one treks past Dirapuk onto Dolma Pass and further until one reaches back to Darchen); the other reason being that we have been taught kriyas and sadhanas that will enable us to benefit more by staying a day at North face and performing our kriyas than doing a parikrama. Though initially perturbed, I was perfectly alright with this plan once I saw Kailash :)</li>
<li>The trek up is through a pretty nice albeit looooooong route though of course there were ups and downs and hard to climb slopes once in a while. To the most part, it is a flattish kind of terrain with a gradual climb in altitude. We must have trekked about 12 - 14 km from Yamadvar (starting point of trek from Darchen) to Dirapuk (North face camp). It took about 6 - 9 hours for our group (depending on how energetic/calm/rushing/pausing one was!). The trek down the next day afternoon took relatively less time and was easier!</li>
<li>This trek up is not really hard (the harder part is the second day of the parikrama yatra when one climbs up really high to Dolma Pass) - that has not been destined for me this year. I shall write about Day 2 and 3 of the parikrama in the years to come :) For now, for day 1, the only difficult part is towards the very end - the last 1-2 km when the air gets very thin and your lungs work extra hard to pump oxygen (here I had to halt every 10-15 steps to catch my breath!)</li>
<li>In terms of preparation, the only thing you need is a belief in the first line of this blog post and a moderate to good health condition. It helps if you are used to walking a lot - I did walk 3- 5 km a day for 2-3 months ahead of my trip in preparation for the yatra. And yes, practice of deep breathing and pranayama. But if you are not really sure of the latter, not to worry - i.e. if you go with Isha, they will ensure you learn and practice to perfection. And most importantly, do not rush and take the time to savour the journey as much as the destination :)</li>
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Now, let me try to recollect the most memorable 15 days of my life :)</div>
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Day 1: Our journey started at Kathmandu, Nepal, the land of the Buddha and Temples. We were pretty excited as we would be checking into a five star hotel (Radisson) and enjoying its luxuries after over 10 days of shifting from hotel to hotel in our trip across Nepal. Of course, the excitement and anticipation of actually kicking off the second part of our trip, i.e. to Kailash, was always on top of our mind too. A wonderful lunch spread later, the 55 of us in our A4 group gathered together for our first Satsang where Sadhguru addressed us through his videos on Kailash and how one should prepare for the journey ahead. He uttered the words that was to carry me through the entire trip - I am eternally grateful for that and that I had the sense to register and place my entire trust and belief on them. An early dinner and 'some socializing with the rest of the group to get to know each other' later, we heard the news that the Chinese Govt has prohibited any flights in and out of Lhasa for the next three days. A nervous few hours followed before we were told that we will indeed be flying out to Lhasa the next day ...hopefully! But the silver lining in the cloud? We would get to visit and take the darshan of Pasupathinath temple before we kick off our yatra.<br />
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Day 2: We woke up early morning for an awesome breakfast and a quick visit to the Pasupathinath Temple. Though, for me personally (and my two friends with me), it was the second visit to Pasupathinath within the last two days, it was a wonderful experience at the temple and we had the time to linger for a few seconds in front of the main lingam before being ushered off. That time enabled us to seek his blessings in peace, to help us all complete our yatra successfully. By 12 noon, we had to depart to the Kathmandu airport to catch our flight to Lhasa - lo and behold, the Chinese had changed their mind and are allowing flights into Lhasa after all. Hooray! But our rescheduled flight which was to depart by 2 got further delayed which resulted in a waiting time of about 3 hours at the airport lounge - but not to worry. Shiva Shiva Shiva Shiva Shiva Shiva Shivaya was there to keep us on a high - we danced to the Sounds of Isha (yes, right there in front of all the other passengers - we must have looked like zoned out shiva bhaktas or whatever - they were all busy taking videos of us!) and then to add more merry, we even played musical chair! Oh, what fun that was. It was also the last day when we were allowed to run and do anything fast - as after Lhasa, we will literally be out of our living depth - at high altitudes that none of us have been used to, with lesser oxygen that our lungs have to try hard to comprehend and quickfire changing situations! Our flight finally took off around 4 PM Kathmandu time and after an hour and half of flying time, we must have arrived at Lhasa around 8 PM China time (as they are 2.5 hours ahead of us). We all huddled into our jackets, caps and what not in anticipation of the "really cold weather" outside - only to find out it was only as cold as Bangalore's colder days and not any more :P<br />
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Day 3: A day at Lhasa, the "City of the Gods". It was a day meant for acclimitization where we were supposed to take things easy and light. Due to our excitement, I don't think it turned out that way! We visited the Sera Monastery after a light breakfast. The highlight of this monastery, for me, were the many Lhasa Aposo dogs there that steal your heart the very first sight - and the many beautiful doorways! The monasteries were lovely too that gave you a sense that all Buddhist gods resemble Hindu gods in some way or another! For instance, the buddhist god Rinponche sits on a Lotus - much like our Lakshminarayana! He is also called Padmashambhava - while his Hindu counterpart is called Padmanabha! Well, I do not know much about it so can't really comment in depth but that's what I felt that the Gods seem to have the same origin and but were just given different names in the two religions (this was later confirmed by Sadhguru but I will not go into it!). Post a simple lunch that had Potatoes playing the hero (which was to haunt us every day for the rest of the journey!), it was a visit to the famous Jokhang Temple (also called the Qoikang Monastery at Barkhor Square) where we also did a bit of shopping for last minute supplies (well, the other's did last minute shopping while I shopped for some nice Tibetian bracelets and a lock and key for my luggage which had a perfectly nice number lock that stopped working after going through the Lhasa security check!!). It became quiet tiring by dinner time - I guess the altitude caught up with us (what kind of phrase is that, altitude catching up :P ) so we retired to our rooms for an early bed time.<br />
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Day 4: This was the day when we spent most part of the day in the bus to Shigatse. This was also the day when my blood pressure started climbing up, up way up - right with the increase in altitude - causing me great worry that I might get rejected or told off not to attempt the parikrama and be left in the Kailash base camp or even worse be left at Saga itself. Isha has a team of volunteers and Doctor(s) that travel with us and are based out of major stopovers enroute who take our vitals every morning and evening - including Blood pressure and Oxygen Saturation levels in the blood. The latter is supposed to be above 90 (it was a fantastic 99% for me at Kathmandu (I love the plains!)) - it will tend to go down with the increasing altitude and subsequent decrease in Oxygen in the air. One needs to compensate this decrease in Oxygen by improving one's breathing by deep breathing and few other exercises - this is pretty manageable. The blood pressure though is not so easy to control (for me as I have a high tendency towards excitement and activity, phew! can't change one's personality overnight!). So if either of these parameters or other vitals are off, and you get an onset of the dreaded altitude sickness (only because of want of trying and you did not do Kriyas and breathing exercises properly), Isha might very well detain you at any point in the journey. This was a very scary thing for me - I just could not afford to even entertain a thought of "not going" to Kailash. So though till this day, I was putting off and not taking any Diamox (the diuretic allopathy medicine recommended to combat altitude sickness which also incidentally helps reduce BP), I bit the bullet so to speak as my worry increased as we got closer and closer to Shigatse. And that didn't help my BP either. The next two days, personally for me, were a blur of worry and stress - though the passing nature was so so beautiful - but my heart was in Kailash and I had no eyes for any scenery on the way.<br />
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Day 5: A long drive to Saga - also a day that will really test one's altitude tolerance or acclimatization as Saga is 14,400 feet or so; Kathmandu is at 4600 feet (same as Bangalore I think) - so you can imagine the hard work your body has to put in to get used to this sudden increase in altitude over the last two days (Lhasa is at 11,990 feet and Shigatse at 12600 feet). So everyone really did take it easy on this day as medical checkups became all important and all of us focused on keeping our bodies healthy and stress free while keeping our thoughts and heart at Kailash.<br />
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Day 6: From Saga, we were to set off to Manasarovar and spend a day there before staring to Kailash. But as our luck would have it, a bridge enroute from Saga to Manasarovar broke down and we were forced to go through a different route that took more than 12 hours on bus. We also got the news that Sadhguru was waiting for us at Darchen for a satsang that evening - so instead of going to Manasarovar, our group was asked to proceed directly to Darchen to meet with our guru. But again destiny had other plans - throughout the journey that day, we met with delays after delays as the road was pretty bad and vehicles were getting stuck in mud. A nice thing that we noticed here is the wonderful helping tendency of the Tibetian drivers and Sherpas that traveled with us from Nepal - instead of going past the stuck vehicles without bothereing, all the vehicles stop and help each other out. It felt very good to get down from our vehicles and observe our troupe of Sherpas help the others who are stuck. So due to the multiple halts enroute, we reached Darchen pretty late at night - and missed the scheduled Satsang with Sadhguru in the evening. While we were heavily disappointed with this turn of events, we were heartened to hear that Sadhguru will meet us early the next day morning at 5.30 before he leaves back to India.<br />
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Day 7: Meeting with Sadhguru - a great highlight of our trip. Though the time we spent with him was less, I felt as if I was meeting a long lost acquaintance or relative or someone I knew! I can't really explain! And before we knew it, it was time for him to go. Alas, a brief satsang it was. The rest of the day was spent taking a walk around Darchen and enjoying our first views of Kailash. One can view the South face of Kailash from Darchen - the face which is famous for its deep ridge in the middle and the horizontal lines that crisscross it resembling perhaps that of the Shiva's face.<br />
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Day 8: Finally, the day arrives - the day we trek up to the North face of Kailash at Dirapuk. The day we were all looking forward to in much anticipation (for some of us, it has been a decades long dream). By now, all my worries and concerns about my BP and health fell away like thin wisps of cloud in front of a summer sun. I was in front of Yamadwar and nothing could stop me! Oh, what a feeling that was - I literally wanted to run all the way up! But I also wanted to spend the maximum time climbing up and enjoying the journey :) So, while we (four of us formed mini teams to walk together) started off as one of the first teams to trek from Yamadwar at around 10.30 AM, we were also one of the last ones to reach the hotel at Dirapuk at around 7.30 PM!! We enjoyed the trek up immensely - we stopped frequently for breaks - nature call break, catching our breath break, meditation break, mantra chanting break, pranayama break, lunch break, nap break (yes! one of my team members even managed to catch a few quick winks to recover her energy, hahaha!), just sitting and seeing Kailash break, photo break, sit by the river break, oh that's a nice rock break, feeding birds break, and what not!<br />
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Oh, what a day that was - tiring but oh so so satisfactory on a deep deep soul level. Every bend in the path presented a different view of the surroundings - there were mountain streams, monasteries, buddhist flags, prayer spots, waterfalls in the distance, rivers, streams, and then there was Kailash standing tall amidst them all. If I could, I would love to vanish from wherever I am and reappear on that path - any day of my life! The last kilometer or so was very killing - but that was also the most beautiful part of the trip offering us a clear, unobstructed view of the North face of Kailash flanked by two mountains in the front. There was also a river or stream that seemed to be coming straight from the melting glaciers of Kailash - I was so tempted to take a sip but also remembered the warning by our group leader that mountain rivers are full of minerals that our urban bodies may not really take a liking to so I refrained (I did drink from the river while on the way back :) ) We were warmly welcomed by our Isha volunteer Mr. Padam as soon as we reached the hotel - he was so kind and even fetched us warm water and hot tea - God bless him! A cold night followed but no one minded - we were at Kailash!!<br />
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Day 9: The day started early at 5.30 or so with the excuse of Nature break - but it turned out to be a magical time for me as I got to sit in complete darkness and stare at Kailash in all his glory - with no one around for company. It was like the mountain was lit up though there was complete darkness around - perhaps the moonlight, perhaps the snow reflecting, perhaps the day was already breaking - whatever it was, it was a beautiful and sacred sight to behold. I did have to miss the actual sunrise and the sunlight that falls on Kailash turning it golden - as we had a scheduled satsang at around the same time. Oh, well next time then Golden Kailash! After the satsang and breakfast, off we went to the river side for a beautiful clearing from where one gets a clear view of Kailash - for our meditation and other practices of Isha. Shambho, it was so beautiful! I could slip into meditation so so easily. One wished to stay there forever and ever - but one had to trek back down the same day. I wish we had stayed for one or two more days there :(<br />
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After lunch, we set off on the trek back down to Yamadwar around 2 PM. It was also one eventful trek as me and a friend decided to take a different route (well, at places only not all the way through) than the one came by. We somehow thought that going by the riverside will be more fun than climbing up and down the mountain paths - however that turned out to be a bad decision - we ended up climbing more ups and downs (hahaha) to skirt the river water when it became too deep in places. But we did have loads of fun. While our trek up was kind of serious and we concentrated on chanting and our prayers, our trek down was all about playing with Mother Nature and what she threw at us! We came back to Yamadver pretty quickly (around 5.45 PM) and without any delay proceeded to Manasarovar after one longing gaze back at Kailash. Till we meet again, old man, till we meet again :)<br />
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So, that night, as is expected, I made sure I woke up two of my friends and set off on a secret midnight tryst to the lake side (so as not to wake the rest of the gang as we were warned not to attempt this and take rest on our first night at Manasarovar; we were asked to do this the second night but hey I was there and I could not take any chances of missing them even for one night!). Our desire was to witness the magical beings that were supposed to visit the lake everyday between 2.30 - 3.30 AM. But it was drizzling like crazy, cold like crazy, and the dogs were howling like crazy. All in all, it made for one eerie night but I wasn't perturbed. One of my friend commented that the dogs howling is a good sign - they are sensing the alien beings, she said. The other one wanted to huddle closer to me so that we can share our body warmth! And I had my eyes fixed to the horizon - and hooo, I think I hallucinated that they were there :P - before being pointed by the station doctor (who also joined us on our secret tryst) that the lights belonged to a hotel on the other side of the lake and not really to any alien beings. Some disappointment later, we decided to wait somemore and all three of us ladies huddled closer and closer together as the weather got more drizzly and cold. Lightning started striking and put a beautiful show on the horizon - in beautiful shades of Orange and Yellow. I fancied that they were not really regular lightning but the alien beings! My friends didn't agree :P After waiting for over two hours, we had to return to our room as it started raining in earnest and we decided there must have been interstellar traffic hold up on account of Krishna's birthday (yes! it was Krishna Janmastami which we celebrated at Manasarovar wonderfully - my friend had thoughtfully packed and got Butter all the way from Bangalore and I had some dry fruits I wanted to offer him). Okay, one more try the next day night then was our resolve.<br />
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Day 10: The previous evening, when we came to Manasarovar, it was a clear and beautiful evening - with the sky and clouds putting on multi-color presentations above a beautiful serene lake. But alas, it decided to remain ominously overcast and rain from the word go the next day. We were to go through our special Isha process and kriyas before taking bath in the lake - a ritual that involved working with our Surya nadi and chantings to make us receptive to the lake's blessings. While I had the most most magical experience during this session (can't really go into detail on that one!), by the end of the process, it started becoming really dark and the sky looked like it might start pouring any second. So the doctors and our group leader had no choice than to warn us not to venture into the lake and take a bath - instead we were asked to just get in and wet our hands and legs if we so wished. But after that powerful process, our bodies were literally jumping of their accord and was raring to get into the water - so no instruction or warning could stop us. So in inspite of the impending rain, all of us jumped into the lake one by one and had the best experience of our life. Though the water must have been freezing cold, I don't think any of us really felt the temperature beyond our skin. It was a beautiful experience - for me, it was almost like taking bath in a river that my mom used to take bath - it felt so secure and sacred. It did start raining as soon as we stepped out of the lake - but hey who cares? The clouds did clear later in the day and gifted us a beautiful day - which we spent by the lake side. Again, one wished to stay there forever and ever. Sigh! That night, I was woken up at 1.30 AM by my friend (she mistook the time to be 2.30!) and both of us ventured out alone sans our other friend and the doctor - repeat of the same situation as last night - cold, drizzle, dogs, clouds! Sigh, we came back inside quickly and resigned ourselves to our destiny - we were not to see the divine beings after all. Next trip, then!<br />
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Day 11 - 15: Well, nothing really stands out - we followed the same route back to Saga, Shigatse, Lhasa and Kathmandu. Lhasa and Kathmandu felt literally hot like Chennai - after spending so many days in colder climates! I already missed Kailash :( Well, after a closing satsang and another visit to Pasupathinath temple later, we officially closed our yatra. This time around, I had a really magical (I know this word is getting repetitive but there's no other word I can use) experience at the Pasupathinath temple. By some luck or fate, I got into the outer premises of the inner sanctum sanctorum on the Eastern side (which opens only during the evening river aarti time - the aarti happens like that of Kashi/Haridwar/Rishikesh at the river Bagmati that runs next to the Pasupathinath temple) and got to spend close to an hour locked up inside (not literally but surrounded by the crowd inside). I witnessed one of the most beautiful aarti ever - and did not regret missing the supposedly grand aarti ritual that happens at the lake side for a single second. I felt really blessed and grateful. Thank you, dear Shiva, for everything.<br />
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So that brings me to the end of my trip - the grandest and the best ever I had undertaken so far in my life. I only wish all my near and dear ones (and you the reader) get this beautiful experience that I got. Blessings to you for the same. And I also wish he calls me again and again and again :) I am hooked now and can't wait to return already! I want to do the full parikrama next time - perhaps even go via the inner kora. Let's see - I hope his blessings will surely enable me to do that. </div>
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Before I conclude, I must offer my heartfelt gratitude to
Sadhguru and Isha Foundation without whom this rebirth wouldn’t have been
possible for me. To the many volunteers and sherpas who sacrificed their life
and sadhana during this time for us all yatris, for my fellow travellers and of
course my family which let me take this break without one word of opposition.
Thank you and may god bless you all. <o:p></o:p></div>
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If you have any specific questions about the trip, feel free to reach out to me.</div>
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And before I sign off, here's a poem that came to me right after we left Manasarovar. It about sums up my journey in as few a words as it can. </div>
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<i><b>Oh Shiva!</b><o:p></o:p></i></div>
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<i>Drinking from the streams of the Kailash<o:p></o:p></i></div>
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<i>Bathing in the waters of the Manasarovar<o:p></o:p></i></div>
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<i>Oh almighty, I lost myself in your grace<o:p></o:p></i></div>
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<i>Humbled and insignificant, I stand in front of you<o:p></o:p></i></div>
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<i>And wonder, to what reason I deserve your benevolence<o:p></o:p></i></div>
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<i>Here a moment, covered the next, Shiva, you are my eternal
aspiration<o:p></o:p></i></div>
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<i>Gazing at your magnificence and delighting in your beauty<o:p></o:p></i></div>
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<i>I wish, I could spend eons at your feet, a day or two is
just not enough<o:p></o:p></i></div>
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<i>But am a mere mortal, and as I return to my dwelling far
away from you<o:p></o:p></i></div>
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<i>I carry with me, memories of hope and happiness and
blessings<o:p></o:p></i></div>
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<i>Shiva...oh Shiva<o:p></o:p></i></div>
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<i>Oh Shiva.....</i><o:p></o:p></div>
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Vaijayanthi KMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00709649662447866587noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1259575802760095868.post-21461986519520113232016-08-16T18:31:00.001+05:302016-08-17T12:29:27.659+05:30Day 11: Trying traditional Newari food at Patan, Kathmandu<p dir="ltr">Patan is another mini kingdom that was ruled by one of the three sons of Anand Mala when he divided the greater Kathmandu valley into three parts (Patan for one son, Bhakatapur for one son and Kathmandu for one son). It is a collection of Durbar Square (King's palace, courtyard), Temples, Carvings, and other features that were needed in a town including a massive bell (made of seven metals, the ringing of the bell could be heard for 3 miles around, effectively informing people of important gatherings at the main courtyard), sacrifice centers (!) amongst modern day buildings and hotels & restaurants. While Kathmandu was known as the kingdom/town of business, Bhakatapur was known as the town of potters and devotees. Patan, however, captures one imagination as it was or rather is known as the town of fine arts. Metal work, paintings, masonry, the list of creative workmanships are endless.... In our guide's words, everyone here is involved in some form or other of Art work. But today, it's pretty much like what we saw in Bhakatapur - nothing different as the same shops, same kind of paintings and other things were there too for attracting the tourists. </p>
<p dir="ltr">While we did the usual sightseeing and 'appreciation tour', the highlight of the day was tasting local Newari food. I just fell in love with it (though we had to stay in front of the cooking area to ensure no non vegetarian or egg gets into it) as it actually resembled our dosa and pesarattu! It was yummy - the 'chokamari' (also called Nepali pizza, where ground rice and lentil flour is made into a dosa topped with veggies or non veg as per one's choice) and 'bara' (ground black lentil again made into dosa - this one was exactly like pesarattu) that we tasted to the accompaniment of some spicy tomato chutney. Loved the Newari food much better than the traditional Nepali thali (called Dal Bhat) which more resembled a regular Indian thali consisting of rice, dal, sag/greens, sabzi/vegetables and curd.</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiet_feIkqBWwzbp_XNqp-C70wUFv8gn-XdOu9LFQwb5MxMAGcvf5VR-Cw1wdEcDFSJkcPu1bLVTyMoUHZuP5N7z1FXLz_7jM64n3op2xkkNh6Qe2S6_7ybU541es0BSOMPWlRl1IttAMA/s1600/IMG_20160816_102450_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiet_feIkqBWwzbp_XNqp-C70wUFv8gn-XdOu9LFQwb5MxMAGcvf5VR-Cw1wdEcDFSJkcPu1bLVTyMoUHZuP5N7z1FXLz_7jM64n3op2xkkNh6Qe2S6_7ybU541es0BSOMPWlRl1IttAMA/s640/IMG_20160816_102450_HDR.jpg"> </a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw8jC_zDmv22K2SSGMZSygEmemUVF5k20Z44aDU3ED4KNvKzObV5iXKEG3pRsO4isedRgmENkTlH3_yVMnhcXbl_MAhncvbuyLLH905NOn2563ZkRhXi4ixEJPmHo1unVFZZW_8Dc8LzI/s1600/IMG_20160816_113259_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw8jC_zDmv22K2SSGMZSygEmemUVF5k20Z44aDU3ED4KNvKzObV5iXKEG3pRsO4isedRgmENkTlH3_yVMnhcXbl_MAhncvbuyLLH905NOn2563ZkRhXi4ixEJPmHo1unVFZZW_8Dc8LzI/s640/IMG_20160816_113259_HDR.jpg"> </a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUh9-AOe2mYLGJKEOrkqLV_3NNTzdDYkl9fEgWOth4-PscVJIF9vm256nvj-6qk2Hz_uVBcKkQTPhfS5HhYsCHND00X1f_2d_S-cyU3jJKXOHYKVXhnntyNCQ1IX7x_3-dqsqTZoaujAg/s1600/IMG_20160816_114457_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUh9-AOe2mYLGJKEOrkqLV_3NNTzdDYkl9fEgWOth4-PscVJIF9vm256nvj-6qk2Hz_uVBcKkQTPhfS5HhYsCHND00X1f_2d_S-cyU3jJKXOHYKVXhnntyNCQ1IX7x_3-dqsqTZoaujAg/s640/IMG_20160816_114457_HDR.jpg"> </a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3_PwK4f-3ZqJh5BWJBHo4Tiq_CdPH9WIhNCzLOrfh8zrVbB3en7Vec9wXWzDVauUJ0SUmp2Ql2ZVp5TIzvssy5y2FsE4K1eUu7xP709VHDA07B5EAkkKLFoqj6mR6KpEsmp-S9Lug1-s/s1600/IMG_20160816_140710_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3_PwK4f-3ZqJh5BWJBHo4Tiq_CdPH9WIhNCzLOrfh8zrVbB3en7Vec9wXWzDVauUJ0SUmp2Ql2ZVp5TIzvssy5y2FsE4K1eUu7xP709VHDA07B5EAkkKLFoqj6mR6KpEsmp-S9Lug1-s/s640/IMG_20160816_140710_HDR.jpg"> </a> </div>Vaijayanthi KMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00709649662447866587noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1259575802760095868.post-61563844188269880232016-08-16T17:29:00.001+05:302016-08-16T18:24:28.289+05:30Day 10: Pasupathinath, the national diety of Nepal<p dir="ltr">Pasupathinath, meaning the lord of all pashus (living and non living beings), is the most famous and sacred temple in the Hindu nation of Nepal. The bigger temple area is actually a collection of old ashrams, mini temples, matts (religious philanthropic centers that travellers can use to freshen up amongst other purposes), and stone inscriptions. The temple, built on the banks of the Bagmati River, attracts devotees by the thousands (or even millions) during the month of August (shravan) and Shivaratri. The day we decided to visit Pasupathinath was the last Monday of shravan, a day that is considered highly auspicious and visited by women who fast the entire month for the well being of their husbands; on the last shravan Monday they seek the darshan and blessings of Pasupathinath, dressed in the colours of Red and Green denoting prosperity and well being, before breaking their fast. You can imagine how serpentine the queue must have been. It was about 2 or so miles long. There was no way we could get in let alone have the darshan of Mr. Pasupathinath. But there's no harm in imploring him. And when he decides to listen, his grace knows no bounds. </p>
<p dir="ltr">By a strange twist of situation, we found ourselves being enquiried by a police officer who wanted to know what we are doing near the temple complex looking at the crowd (we had walked quiet a bit alongside the queue hoping there might be a paid ticket counter or something). After ascertaining that we are indeed Hindus and with good intentions and from India, he actually let us in to the temple prahar and allowed us to join the queue as it entered into the temple boundaries from the streets below. What weird luck is this? Is cutting into the line not an injustice to all the ones who have been standing for so long? Before we even had time to consider these questions and feel bad (we will certainly not accept it if anyone cuts the queue back home), we were herded ahead by the crowd with no one seeming to mind us jumping in between. But my conscious didn't let me to settle - I was totally unnerved all along but didn't quiet know how I can make amends. But no time for all that - within about 5 minutes, we were in front of the main sanctom sanatorium and Lord Pasupathinath was in front of us. And it started pouring at exactly the same moment scattering the crowd here and there. With a great feeling of blessing and having been a subject of divine mercy, we moved to the Shankaracharya matt that was outside the temple complex to take shelter from the rain and meditate for a bit. As my guru says, whatever happens happens for the good; every moment is inevitable and to be cherished. These moments at Pasupathinath were certainly to be cherished for a lifetime. </p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKWh7xNBtXZroxlE9xWaloceBRi2A4SmE0pkSjkDyTPycNaFk64q0NPI1zjzExTXra1y8rCO7yQtKJYGWF4YZKKCope0yUAengFGKIpvg8SAVOZFBMfQxdIE5YHDBibOYf6-0YeK-1QU0/s1600/IMG_20160815_150658_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKWh7xNBtXZroxlE9xWaloceBRi2A4SmE0pkSjkDyTPycNaFk64q0NPI1zjzExTXra1y8rCO7yQtKJYGWF4YZKKCope0yUAengFGKIpvg8SAVOZFBMfQxdIE5YHDBibOYf6-0YeK-1QU0/s640/IMG_20160815_150658_HDR.jpg"> </a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZVXD7E2_OCEgVb3ucvmc27EKnjWcTbEveO7TUv1UnT-PxB9UjztGkcodcz8qUdrWWtqKyy4CHUT05JHHKrP7-ljik_qTP_MylX7ZRYPzQZUSChYbphUqsaMhV9dmhhP2FoBqqy22WbEY/s1600/IMG_20160815_150702_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZVXD7E2_OCEgVb3ucvmc27EKnjWcTbEveO7TUv1UnT-PxB9UjztGkcodcz8qUdrWWtqKyy4CHUT05JHHKrP7-ljik_qTP_MylX7ZRYPzQZUSChYbphUqsaMhV9dmhhP2FoBqqy22WbEY/s640/IMG_20160815_150702_HDR.jpg"> </a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5HeOKDFjWkXYO2vJ8nII5H4_oUSu8PptTwqQq6M3eLlwMLEein9dUgIrABTylwDYY9d9mPmwJg26hmp4jciq7zmDfxb3_DXvlS_zt3afYlQW3c4MVjCsxH0HJmHy_ECmmgvR0mQlaPjk/s1600/IMG_20160815_155932_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5HeOKDFjWkXYO2vJ8nII5H4_oUSu8PptTwqQq6M3eLlwMLEein9dUgIrABTylwDYY9d9mPmwJg26hmp4jciq7zmDfxb3_DXvlS_zt3afYlQW3c4MVjCsxH0HJmHy_ECmmgvR0mQlaPjk/s640/IMG_20160815_155932_HDR.jpg"> </a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1VzSwC7mqVfEeGrz_KuDcxO0QKrSM64OaSxzUIzWaSRcwoH0ScaaELFzx7EWC8YA5kV8gdi6ntk4I1M65GmU_tLoD7t9zXbZZ9hC-X0GLTqo_QBGEh1xOc2SArsad-b2X8YYxPBcPsY8/s1600/IMG_20160815_160352_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1VzSwC7mqVfEeGrz_KuDcxO0QKrSM64OaSxzUIzWaSRcwoH0ScaaELFzx7EWC8YA5kV8gdi6ntk4I1M65GmU_tLoD7t9zXbZZ9hC-X0GLTqo_QBGEh1xOc2SArsad-b2X8YYxPBcPsY8/s640/IMG_20160815_160352_HDR.jpg"> </a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJMMDZ3m2dQyef94CGS-8-v0UGuVFIuy4_hYVMv4b1rvDg0gHxdaGNLEmAz-J2B94ioGdS69vqb7Svu5-TPitiSbAA3J4AQlA0G3cDirDtWyK53Wx2ukZkWGVyMp66vREV3lJnmJOjyrc/s1600/IMG_20160815_160219_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJMMDZ3m2dQyef94CGS-8-v0UGuVFIuy4_hYVMv4b1rvDg0gHxdaGNLEmAz-J2B94ioGdS69vqb7Svu5-TPitiSbAA3J4AQlA0G3cDirDtWyK53Wx2ukZkWGVyMp66vREV3lJnmJOjyrc/s640/IMG_20160815_160219_HDR.jpg"> </a> </div>Vaijayanthi KMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00709649662447866587noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1259575802760095868.post-89215113431394669052016-08-15T11:32:00.001+05:302016-08-15T11:35:01.142+05:30Day 9: Visit to Jal Narayan and Swayambunath<p dir="ltr">Budhanilkantha or Jal Narayan as it's also called is a beautiful open air temple in Kathmandu where Vishnu is seen sleeping on Aadishesha (cosmic multi headed serpent) in the middle of a small pond. The name however comes out differently hinting at Buddha or Shiva (literal meaning of Budhanilkantha denotes Shiva aka blue throated) - but it is neither, as the reclining diety is very much that of Vishnu (the statue is believed to be over 1000 years old). It is said that the water of the pond in which Vishnu lies comes from a lake in which Shiva immersed himself after consuming the poison that came out from churning the ocean - hence the name Budhanilkantha. The sthala purana goes that a farmer and his wife accidentally discovered the statue while ploughing their field (in the process striking the toe of the statue causing it to bleed). Even today, the toe of the diety seems slightly damaged/missing (as said by our taxi driver but I couldn't see that myself). As interesting as the history of the place, the temple is also wonderfully calm, peaceful and filled with a serene energy. And it's devoid of the regular tourists. </p>
<p dir="ltr">To my delight, I also saw two Rudraksha trees in the premises as well as met a local hotel owner (who was selling Rudraksha in the side) who took the time to explain how he collects the fruits, dries them and makes the Rudraksha from the trees. It was nice to finally see the tree from where the holy seeds believed to protect one's aura comes from. </p>
<p dir="ltr">Our next stop for the day was at Swayambunath, the second most sacred place of workship for Buddhists in the Kathmandu valley (after Boudanath). This Stupa is also called as the Monkey temple as there are many monkeys in the premises. Another beautiful and calm place, Swayambunath and it's monkeys made me fondly recall the monkeys at Ramana Ashram at Tiruvannamalai that sat on me and fed from my hands. It was a wonderful experience for me that reiterated that Love is universal across species and boundaries. All in all, Budhanilkantha and Swayambunath made for a beautiful day.</p>
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Mount Everest or Sagarmatha <span style="font-family: sans-serif;">as it's called in Nepali and</span> Chomulungma as it's called in Tibet has been known as the mountain of "Holy Mother" much before it captured wider human imagination and efforts at conquest to climb its peak. It has been believed that the Goddess Miyolangsangma, the Goddess of inexhaustible giving, lives on the Mountain and Chomulungma (meaning Holy Mother) is her home and playground. Knowing that many mighty peaks of the Himalayas are considered sacred and home to many Gods, both Hindu and Buddhists, it is only apt that the highest peak on Earth, at 8848 metres above sea level, must also be worshipped in a similar fashion. And having visited Manakamna recently which is not too far from the Everest, one wants to believe that there's a similar goddess ruling the latter. True or not, the cultural aspects, beliefs, and spiritual significance associated with these Mountains, specifically the Everest, Kailash (or the ones I have had the fortune to visit recently including Manakamna and Muktinath), or even mountains in general, is definitely highly interesting for me. Much more interesting than just thinking them of as scales of human climbing achievement and display of courage and toughness. Perhaps if the belief about the Goddess on Everest would have been more wide spread and prevalent, I might have been more compelled to climb (attempt that is) it's peak myself. But what to do? The endless fascination with Himalayas tempts one to visit the mighty big mountain of this range however one can so off we must go on the expedition to Sagarmatha (I somehow love this name and prefer this to the more famous Everest) irrespective of whether a Goddess rules it or not. </p><p dir="ltr">My first fascination with climbing the Mount Everest got triggered last year when I watched the movie of the same name. Based on a true life narrative of the 1996 summit attempt and the human struggle to survive all odds, the movie moved me to great levels. I dared to think, in the the corner of my mind, what it would be to undertake a similar expedition as the climbers portrayed in the movie. Even the mere thought of me attempting to climb the Everest, let alone to its peak, or say even trek to its base camp, was laughable (even to me!!) till last year. But not anymore. Perhaps, just perhaps, I might come back and trek to its base camp in the future. For now, a mountain flight to Sagarmatha must suffice. </p><p dir="ltr">Off we went to the Airport early morning the second day in a row (as the flight got cancelled due to the weather on the first day - oh it was so highly disappointing). An hour or two of nail biting followed with fervent prayers offered to the weather God and imploring the Goddess <span style="font-family: sans-serif;">Miyolangsangma to allow us to visit and view her from the top (at a respective distance though). And she conceded. Soon we were off from the Kathmandu airport in an 18-seater flight, speeding towards the snow clad peaks visible in the distance. It was a beautiful day - cloudy in places - but bright and beautiful. All eyes were glued to the windows as the air hostess handed out 'route maps' and the pilot rolled off names of the many peaks we cross before we come to THE mountain - Shubha Pangma (8013 mtrs), Gauri Shankar (7134 mtrs), Chugimago (6297 mtrs)...... And then she rose up high magnificently, like an ethereal being - Sagarmatha. She didn't really need the air hostess or the pilot to point her out to us. By now, the cloud cover was so thick that we could see nothing at all of the ground or the mountains. But there she was - the only peak (or the twin peaks along with Lhotse at 8516 mtrs) visible, raising high above the clouds. It looked</span><span style="font-family: sans-serif;"> like Mother Nature created her most precious jewel and decided to store it amidst the soft folds of the thickest cotton to perseve it's beauty for an eternity. So regal, so awe inspiring, so out of this world.... Sagarmatha, thank you for allowing me a glimpse of your wonder today.</span></p><p dir="ltr">As they said, I might not have climbed the Everest but I touched it with my heart (the cheesy line from the Airlines promo!). <br></p><p dir="ltr"><br></p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizNw4UTaqEzdswaPKDCIt5cQWPw2ISP6i_PhSjKny8tlFZjGOlHRiCLPc-1f3RY-nEj5NBa11oZefhH_k91bOUKZf2pkHaTbYI7YWPFN68nby_zUFxigF1rZsxIfvytNBiyd6woaLvrAc/s1600/IMG_20160814_071724.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizNw4UTaqEzdswaPKDCIt5cQWPw2ISP6i_PhSjKny8tlFZjGOlHRiCLPc-1f3RY-nEj5NBa11oZefhH_k91bOUKZf2pkHaTbYI7YWPFN68nby_zUFxigF1rZsxIfvytNBiyd6woaLvrAc/s640/IMG_20160814_071724.jpg"> </a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk5g0yyvsycXVT1Oqa9hEjci8LokUhFn8Bi5zdq3xJclySVyWmNK5foQvTQh9WOP0GOy1IOZQKMS1dTwsIXI9F3DsPQpAFpwf_T5od3sOhZXS8g_HJZDmbviJv_woiMa9in7EAqqcg13s/s1600/IMG_20160814_071901.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk5g0yyvsycXVT1Oqa9hEjci8LokUhFn8Bi5zdq3xJclySVyWmNK5foQvTQh9WOP0GOy1IOZQKMS1dTwsIXI9F3DsPQpAFpwf_T5od3sOhZXS8g_HJZDmbviJv_woiMa9in7EAqqcg13s/s640/IMG_20160814_071901.jpg"> </a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB0yh46-EHO_5oTKc3D3vqk-Xammc5H085uK96MVMCvPMg4q11gjRew7XwSkutF3CuWm3pOtfnJ5sjCwg9nuvvQthZxOWEH3J9TB_JwffXLUlYjAABzZSL_-Z7KV8tm-bPT1ITpCqsHMw/s1600/IMG_20160814_072451.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB0yh46-EHO_5oTKc3D3vqk-Xammc5H085uK96MVMCvPMg4q11gjRew7XwSkutF3CuWm3pOtfnJ5sjCwg9nuvvQthZxOWEH3J9TB_JwffXLUlYjAABzZSL_-Z7KV8tm-bPT1ITpCqsHMw/s640/IMG_20160814_072451.jpg"> </a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7BNk5V1TdKNvmZGmRYgobe4NPiBOZCHWbikgCHBwTtT4L4tJkbCFUyAwSc1Ln3pLaD7x2Nb7sKMv5Jtr9SIEhVoQEs9oHu3IErSUAyoYG0_fYXrkLLGJjc4RmYuO32r8O5Rygi2Q93oU/s1600/IMG_20160814_074702.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7BNk5V1TdKNvmZGmRYgobe4NPiBOZCHWbikgCHBwTtT4L4tJkbCFUyAwSc1Ln3pLaD7x2Nb7sKMv5Jtr9SIEhVoQEs9oHu3IErSUAyoYG0_fYXrkLLGJjc4RmYuO32r8O5Rygi2Q93oU/s640/IMG_20160814_074702.jpg"> </a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeYpsE8uKNckiTMKg0RCs4LLzsmM-b1chIQgo5dYte5hnU3Wms-hLXh6qAYryqAIJNu8hIf179nT5MB8pWv7skPXnv_k84MiFID9JKDXAltt9T3D7Tz1CHcGnB4mBgd21IFhPvdO2trmw/s1600/IMG_20160814_080508.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeYpsE8uKNckiTMKg0RCs4LLzsmM-b1chIQgo5dYte5hnU3Wms-hLXh6qAYryqAIJNu8hIf179nT5MB8pWv7skPXnv_k84MiFID9JKDXAltt9T3D7Tz1CHcGnB4mBgd21IFhPvdO2trmw/s640/IMG_20160814_080508.jpg"> </a> </div>Vaijayanthi KMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00709649662447866587noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1259575802760095868.post-20810489910082776842016-08-14T08:52:00.001+05:302016-08-14T08:56:30.032+05:30Day 8: Impressions of Thamel, Bhakapur, and Kathmandu<p dir="ltr"><u>If</u> you have been living amidst the serenity of the mountains for more than a few days, you don't really want to return to the chaos of civilisation. Whatever beauty that man tries to build, whatever magnificence that he tries to mimick, whatever awe he hopes to create... everything will be a pale comparison to what the Nature so effortlessly (or so it seems) puts together. So when I tell you that I didn't really dig Thamel or Bhakatapur, I hope you will get the right perspective. Thamel is the place where most tourists on a budget stay at Kathmandu. It very much resembles the Avenue Road area at Bangalore or the Parry's Corner at Chennai. Narrow lanes crammed with hotels and shops, people moving about looking like they know where they are going, police keeping a tab here and there....and the inevitable dust, controlled chaos and energy typical to such places. One can't wait to get out of the lanes to the calm and comfort of their hotel room. But hey, that's my opinion - otherwise, I think, the wider world thinks Thamel is a charming little place friendly on the discerning traveller who wants to feeeeeel the 'culture'. </p>
<p dir="ltr">Budget hotels, Souvenir shops, AtoZ stores, ever willing to help local folks, 'authentic' feel and so on and so forth....what's not to like, eh? Uh, sure, if you say so. As for me, I hate being surrounded by eye candy that you can't afford to buy (not necessarily because of the price but baggage limitations and self imposed mental restraint :p). They are a constant reminder of human need to 'build a home' and 'fill it with beautiful but useless things'. Oh, the turquoise necklace there, the rudraksha bracelets here, the smiling Buddha there, gory masks here, Yak bells there, prayer wheels here, bags there, cute little woollen hats here.....oh, so tiring just to look at them <u>a</u>ll and simply admire, forget about acquiring them to 'remember my trip to Nepal' back home. One day should suffice to take all that 'beauty' in. I am staying here for five days.... you can imagine my daze! </p>
<p dir="ltr">Bhakatapur is about 17 kilometres or so from Thamel. It's a 700 year old ancient city filled with beautiful Temples, wonderful architecture, mysterious courtyards, nagging hawkers, friendly shop keepers, and selfie obsessed tourists. If you have been to Hampi or Mahabalipuram on a nice day, By seem like just a tick in the box. But it's nice. To take pictures. To feel the culture. To know the history so that you can write the thesis you have been planning for so long. To admire all that artwork and go back inspired to paint the next ravi varma. To buy Souvenirs. To taste that JuJu yogurt that you get only at Bhakatapur and no where else in the world (except in India where we call it misti dohi). God, when did I become so jaded, sigh!</p>
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We have had the fun, we have enjoyed the external, we have tested our physical limits. Now time to focus more internally. To get us going in this sadana that we will be undertaking, we stopped at the Manakamna temple on the way to Kathmandu. The Manakamna temple is one of the highly revered place of worship for Hindus in Nepal where Goddess Bagavati (Parvati) is worshipped as the wish fulfilling goddess (Mana meaning mind, Kamana meaning what one desires). In her most benevolent and graceful form, she sits on top of a big hill which is about 700 metres journey up in a cable car. The way up presents beautiful views of the Gandaki snaking below alongside the mountains, and the dense forests of the mountain Manakamna resides on. The entire 20 or so minutes it takes to make it to the top is filled with wonder and delight as one tries to take in the entire 360 degree view offered by the glass covered cable car.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Today being the Varamahalakshmi Pooja will be a grand occasion back home. I woke up with a slight feeling of nostalgia as I thought of my MIL having to do all the preparations herself without me to help around and the Goddess being worshipped at home. But as her grace would have it, I am here at Manakamna to receive her blessings, here far away from home. And we never planned to coincide these two occasions - it has happened purely by her wish. One is filled with gratitude as one feels the presence of the Shakti continuously keeping us in her folds through out this trip to Nepal so far. I have surrendered myself completely to her and I feel like a child of the universe totally for the first time in my life. The mother will take care.<br><br><br><br><br><br></p>
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<p dir="ltr">Whenever I see mountains, especially ones that seem inaccessible, I wonder how it would be if one were to fly and sit on the peaks and gaze at the world below. Must be all the effect of climbing and sitting on water tanks - a favorite pastime of mine all through the childhood. Our flight back to Pokhara rekindled that wish again as I sat in the 15 seater gazing at the beauty of Annapurna and watching glaciers, mountain rivers, streams, waterfalls, valleys, dense forests, natural grasslands, and rough yet beautiful rocky terrains fly past below me. So much beauty and so untouched by the humans (as it should be). I would have loved to teleport myself to these places and become part of them - slide down the glaciers, play in the rivers, bath in the waterfalls, climb the rocks, run through the forests, hug the trees, talk to the flowers, eat the wild berries, and nap on the grass. Ha, a magical life that would be. But alas, I haven't learnt teleporting yet. Sad that. Perhaps I can at least fly to them, si? That should be possible, hmm? But then I should transform myself to a bird first! And once I transform, I must remember my human wishes and not go flying off to the valley in search of seeds and nuts (I have a feeling I will do that if I become a bird :p). Sigh! Back to reality - I can't really abandon my human family as I do not yet know to transform back to human from bird form. Must learn that soon. Next time Annapurna, next time. So until then, the closest to flying like a bird that I can get to is to paraglide! </p>
<p dir="ltr">Though the very thought of paragliding was super exciting, I was a little nervous when I thought of the take off and landing. Flying is cool and easy (as I have done that when I practised my bird transformations with my master) but how to take off and land in human form? Well I learnt that today. One must first drive to the highest hill in sight (in this case it was the Sarangkot at Pokhara), meet and greet one's flying buddy for the next 30 minutes (it helps immensely if it is a young and handsome hulk), hand over the life chi to him and trust him to give it back in proper shape, get strapped into a purple paraglider (duh, they thought purple matched my pink shirt, stupid men!), hold his hand for dear life (initially only; after that he needs it for flying, sigh!), and start walking off the hilltop cliff while furiously praying and imploring Anjaneya to ask his father (the wind god) to be kind and merciful. You see, one can't really fly unless the wind cooperates. Even if the wind were to lift you initially, you will soon come speeding down to ground if the wind is not blowing properly. Oh, you also need the Sun god to heat up the wind and create thermals (wind pockets that help you gain altitude and fly high high and higher). Being the dear friend he is, Anjaneya ensured his father listened to me. We took off from the cliff within 2 - 3 steps of walking and I was airborne in under 10 seconds! Woohooooo! I believe I can fly, sang my handsome flying buddy trying to pep me up in case I was afraid. Mr. Hulk, I don't need no pepping, thank you very much. I am born to fly! </p>
<p dir="ltr">The next 30 or so odd minutes were some of the nicest, calmest, peaceful and exciting moments of my life. Sounds contradicting, uh? Not really. As I flew higher and higher, and tuned out all the noises of the world below (except for the continuous talking of the hulk. Shut up, now will you?), a peace descended on me - look at the green hills below, look at the calm lake, feel the weightlessness, feel the benevolence of nature.... All is well with the world at this moment and place in time. All is well, there's beauty all around, the sun is shining, one is flying, the wind is blowing, and the hulk keeps talking. It was <u>almost</u> meditative for me (sorry am like that!). My buddy was afraid I might get sick...perhaps puke all over. Tell me if you feel sick, he said, tell me immediately. What would he have done, I wonder? Crash landed and broken his legs to escape from my puke? Nah, I can't have that. No sick feeling at all dude, I replied, fly higher man...catch that wind and give me a spin. He grinned and took me higher and caught the thermal to start the spin. Bugger, not so fast, I shouted...he hesitated and alas we lost the thermal! No spinning! Perhaps next time he assured. Okay. Pitch control at least? Sure he said. So we went swinging in the air. Up and down, side to side, flying all around.... oh, it was sooo awesome! Better than chocolate cake I assure you. You must try it at least once in your life. As for me, I have started thinking about what it takes to become a Paragliding pilot. And I <u>shall</u> catch that thermal and spin next time for sure.</p>
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It is considered the Apple capital of Nepal as the main crop cultivated here are Apples grown on the banks of the Kali Gandaki. The entire hiking trail is dotted with Apple farms as one walks peacefully from Jomsom without any exertion whatsoever owing to the relatively flat lands enroute. This being the start of the season for Apples in these parts, it was also a great sight to behold as we saw every tree on the path ladden with the Green and Red fruits in various stages of ripening. One could even pick a fruit or two off the tree and eat on the way with only the Kali for witness as most farms were deserted and void of any human vigilance. </p>
<p dir="ltr">As my luck would have it, we got ourselves a Vegetable vendor (who was going to pick his produce from Marpha to sell at Jomsom) as our porter/guide. One could also hire a bike or take the local bus and reach Marpha in under 20 minutes but considering the fine weather, we decided to hike all the way. Our porter, it turned out, was a great talker and he kept chatting all the way whenever I fell in line with him. Thanks to him, we reached Marpha in what seemed like just 30 minutes.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The tiny village was a sweet surprise right from the word go. As with almost all towns here, the outskirts of Marpha had a monastery and prayer wheels welcoming us. The town, shaped in a kind of semi circular shape curving away from the main road, was straight from an exotic vacation postcard. Narrow pathways lined with pavement stones, flowing water underneath, stone houses attached closely to each other on either sides, flat roofs stacked with wood, and a sense of peace and calm that one could never find anywhere else in the world. Oh, heavens! As with my previous post, it would be better if the pictures do the talking.</p>
<p dir="ltr">But before that, I must let you in on a secret jaunt of mine to the Horticulture department in the area in the guise of an Apple farm visit. You see, I made our porter promise me to take me shopping with him when he goes off to buy his goods. And my specific request to him was to get me as many seeds as possible. The kind man that he was, he not only took me to the Horticulture dept (aka Apple farm aka Vegetable Garden aka Market), he also introduced me to the officials. An hour or so of great talking ensued with me emploring them for all kinds of seeds while they kept going off track chatting about their experiences of India. At one point, they even got highly amused at my eagerness to get seeds from Nepal to India (meaning what seeds do you want to take all the way from here to Bangalore that you won't get in India was their question). I finally managed to convince them to sell me some seeds after making them understand the difficulty of getting pure native seeds (they don't usually sell any seeds though; the seeds were for their own growing in the dept garden). I walked away a happy customer with a quarter kilo seeds each of Mustard Sag (a special kind of leafy green with huge leaves), Nepali Radish (which grows 2 or so foot long) and Swiss Chards. Now I just can't wait to get back home to get them going in my balcony. <br>
It's totally another concern whether customs at the Indian airport will allow it!!!<br></p>
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The river, also called Narayani, has been mentioned in many puranas. But in India, one is most likely to have heard of the name Gandaki with reference to Shaligrams. Shaligrams, which when scientifically defined are but fossilised stones and remains from a million years ago, are worshipped as the very representation of Vishnu and considered highly sacred and revered by Vaishnavaites. They are to be found only in the Kali Gandaki river, specifically where the Gandaki is accessible at Kagbeni and further upstream in the forbidden kingdom of Upper Mustang (where the other sacred place of Damodar Kund is also present along with thousands of years old cave temples and palace/forts of kings of yesteryears). The Gandaki is supposed to originate from a glacier at the outer borders of Upper Mustang where the Himalayas lead to the Tibet. Some even speculate that the great Manasarovar at Tibet may be one of the sources of the river. And the Shaligrams themselves originate somewhere near Damodar Kund and get washed downstream. I also heard from a trekker I met at Ekalabhatti (where we stopped for lunch on way up to Kagbeni) that Shaligrams are found in abundance near Yara, another place at Upper Mustang. Well, tempting though it is to imagine going there, the permit required to go to Upper Mustang costs about 500 USD per person and involves getting permission from the immigration department as well. And it's tough terrain, very tough that requires at least 5-6 porters to accompany a troupe to carry tents, cooking essentials, etc. So perhaps another year in the future! </p>
<p dir="ltr">Coming back to Shaligrams, there's a nice story or Purana on how they came about and what they mean - do check it out on Google. And while at that, do read about the River too - I find it extremely fascinating.</p>
<p dir="ltr">My early growing years have been witness to the worship of Shaligrams almost everyday by my grandfather. A very pious and religious man, he never skipped a single day to take care of the Shaligrams (which he had got by himself when he went to the Nepal yatra in early 1980's; am not sure if he already had some through inheritance from his father) - he took care of them as if they were a living breathing mini incarnation of the very God he worshipped. His morning rituals started with an elaborate procedure (after bath) of wearing the 12 <u>thir</u>umans across his body including the forehead while repeating mantras and the 24 names of Vishnu followed by  Sandhyavandanam (recitation of Gayatri Mantra) and Surya Namaskaram. He then entered the Kitchen (which is where we almost always had our place of worship at home) and started his daily Pooja to the Shaligrams - with an offering of Tulasi water and a complex ritualistic bathing of the Shaligrams. Unfortunately I never observed what he did exactly. I just remember his fast hand movements and lip movements as he lost himself in the worship/procedure. During this entire time (perhaps of about 45 to 60 minutes), one must never disturb him or even touch or brush against him. Even if one were to do so by accident, I remember days when he used to take bath again and repeat the entire procedure! The worship ended when he came out of the room and gave us the prasad of Tulasi water which has been offered to Shaligrams (i.e. Only if one has taken bath). One could then breath easy and start making noises, run around the house, climb over her grandpa, pull his ears, tickle his tummy and make all kind of merry. Till then, one must remain a silent and quiet child. I guess I was to most extent :)</p>
<p dir="ltr">Well, the past few months, especially the weeks ahead of my trip, I have been constantly thinking of the Kali Gandaki and her gifts of Shaligrams. I have been imagining myself by her side, looking for the mini incarnations of Vishnu myself - as in a far off corner of mind, I feel they will bring me closer to my grandfather. Well that's another direction I don't want to go to now. However, suffice it to say that it is something that I consider very dear though I know not how to take care of the Shaligrams by myself. One can learn though, yes? But then one must find them first at Gandaki! And today it came to be. </p>
<p dir="ltr">Here, take a look at the short video I shot during the three or so odd hours that I spent on the Gandaki bed at Kagbeni. As she rushed past fast and furious, mysterious of her depths owing to the dark grey/black color, I spent what I think will be one of the most memorable time of my life. Loads of excitement, a bit of fear, fast blowing wind, and an one track mind to spot the dark black stones amidst the million strewn on the bed....indeed makes for the best time of one life :)</p>
Vaijayanthi KMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00709649662447866587noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1259575802760095868.post-22035091684630552532016-08-09T23:40:00.001+05:302016-08-10T13:31:12.748+05:30Day 3 Part 2: For the love of the Kali Gandaki river and Upper Mustang<p dir="ltr">Our tiny 15 seater flight landed at Jomsom airport smoothly. To call it one of my best flying experience would be an understatement. After entering our details at the Airport register, we got ourselves a porter to act as our guide and help carry our backpacks as the trek/hike up to Kagbeni is long and steep in places (moreover we weren't really confident if our random preparations for the trek in the last few months were enough). Kagbeni is a nice mid point to Muktinath (about 8 or so kilometres distance from Jomsom) and we wanted to take a day and break journey at this village to let our body get used to breathing with less oxygen dense air as we will be gaining altitude steadily through the day. Not to mention Kagbeni is also the place where you can stroll by the banks of the Kali and seek Shaligrams if you so wish. Something that I dearly wanted to do. </p>
<p dir="ltr">We set off without further delay from Jomsom after a quick black Tea (to help in acclimatisation) following the Kali Gandaki upstream towards her place of origin, the Upper Mustang. Soon, we left the town far behind as we walked on the banks of the Kali and moved uphill and down - with the river for company all the time. This is where I am going to suspend my belief that I can put everything into words. Because somethings can't just be expressed at all - especially if you want the reader to get the same sense of wonderment and awe that you felt. Perhaps the pictures can do the talking - let's hope.</p>
<p dir="ltr">As we moved from mountain to mountain in the narrow walking path, a sense of disbelief started taking shape. How can there be so much beauty. And that too in an arid place as that of the Mustang route we are following. To a person who grew up thinking Nilgiris (of the Ooty fame), are the best on Earth, and the mountains are supposed to be lush green, the mountains we passed through the day was a stark contrast and a constant challenge of my beliefs and perceptions of beauty. Oh what a creation  - one can't help but start thinking about the creator and wonder at our own insignificance in this grand universe. Every turn in the path, every twist of the river, every change in direction revealed a new sense of wonder. Our entire trek during the day was simply powered by the beauty of the River and her accompanying mountains. </p>
<p dir="ltr">Here, take a look at the pictures. And it's my wish and hope that you get to experience this for yourself too.</p>
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We were to fly out to Jomsom from Pokhara at 8 AM in a mini 15 seater flight in what is infamously termed as the 'vomit flight'. The plane will leave the Pokhara airport and quickly ascend to about 3500 <u>mtrs</u> to fly towards the magnificent Annapurna range of Himalayas where Jomsom is located. But the journey is supposed to be nerve wrecking and nausea inducing as the heavy winds of the Himalayas is known to like playing with tiny objects that take it upon themselves to fly in the sky. In particular, the winds are supposed to love the 'game of toss and catch' as they will try their best to hurl a flight this way and that. And in a bid to deal with this playfulness, the plane will bank to the left and right and almost brush the walls of the mighty mountains that it will fly in between as the plains give way to mighty mountains that rise up high high to the sky. If the weather turns a little bit bad and decides to rain (or pour or snow!), the wind will get nastier which is why there's a high possibility of all the flights getting cancelled. Very much the reason for my 'tension' as we drove to the tiny airport at the outskirts of the town. I was all set to reach Jomsom by 11 and I didn't want no wind trying to play. No sir, not today.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Post the mandatory security check, we entered the airport at around 7 AM to the news that even the first flight scheduled to leave at 6 hasn't left. Uhuh. An hour of nervous activity followed as I tried to calm my racing heart with all kinds of meditation techniques I knew. I just couldn't take the possibility of not reaching Jomsom today come what may. Fortunately for me (a blessing really), a troupe of Tamil yatris poured in and filled up the otherwise near empty airport (sans for the few foreigners who prefer a flight to Jomsom instead of the trekking route from Pokhara). Forcing myself to come out of my 'tension' and keeping my nervousness aside, I struck up a conversation with the nearest aunty who seemed approachable. She was totally thrilled to discover that I speak Tamil and called over her husband to join our chat as well. The next 30 minutes flew by in a rush as we discovered our mutual love for pilgrimages. She regaled me with notes of their visit to Kailash Manasarovar (which they were returning from, with Muktinath being the last leg of their yatra before they return back to Delhi and then to their homes) as her husband spoke of the many blessings they witnessed while doing the Parikrama and Pooja at Manasarovar. I was thrilled to bits too. It was almost like meeting my granny after her yatra thirty years back. A sense of wonder and joy washed over me as I became involved in our talk and the inevitable turning of the conversation towards personal details and aspirations. So much so that I almost missed the check in call for our flight. Yay! The wind had turned benevolent and is allowing flights in the sky today! How cool was that. </p><p dir="ltr">A quick good bye, pranams, and exchange of wishes later, I boarded our flight (they were in a different flight with a plan to go up to Muktinath by Jeep the same day whereas we were to trek/hike up) and rushed to occupy the most 'prized' (or not depending on your flying consistency) seat - right behind the pilot and the open cockpit. Whoever called this a 'vomit flight' didn't like flying at all - either that or the weather gods were throwing out their grandest carpets as part of my welcome. I loved loved loved it. The thrill of seeing our flight's shadow following us all the way (ya I know shadows are meant to do that but then how often do you get to see your own shadow (or the flight's) from 3500 mtrs, hmm?), witnessing the changing faces of the Himalayas as the green mountains slowly gave way to snow clad peaks, the panaroma of the ground beneath with tiny villages dotting the landscape here and there as civilisation became more sparse, and of course the rainbows and waterfalls down below. A magical stage performance really! No other words can describe the journey better. Oh, did I forget to mention the wonders of seeing the snaking Kali Gandaki river as she rushed far far below from Upper Mustang towards mainland Nepal? Magic, just magic.<br></p>
<p dir="ltr">To be continued.....</p>
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The wonder, the imagination and delight of a five year old as she heard the tales of her grandparents after they returned from their yatra to Nepal (and Muktinath, one of the 108 divyadesams considered sacred and must visit for Vaishnavaites) knew no bounds. Or so I imagine. Whiffs of memories from that decade compels me to think that perhaps I wanted to go to the yatra myself, just like my grandparents, after I grow up. But as time passed and I 'grew up', the dream went way way back in the memory stack. I am not sure what kindled it to the surface again or what made me plan this trip. Perhaps a blog that I visited a few months back. But seriously, if you had told me, even a year back, that I would undertake such a journey and sit staring at the mountains at what seems like the top of the world (at 3800 mtrs) with a totally blank mind unable to take in the vastness and wonders of creation any more, I wouldn't have believed you. But that's where I am today and words are insufficient to capture what the mind desperately tries to soak in.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Muktinath is a tiny Tibetan/Nepali settlement in the Mustang region of Nepal. It is also part of the famous Annapurna trekking circuit in Nepal. On an average year, over 100,000 million tourists visit the Annapurna in search of adventure, beauty, peace, and ultimately their own selves - whether to discover themselves in the hardships and challenges that are part of a trekking expedition or to dissolve themselves in the divine and evolve as better beings on a pilgrimage. For me, it was a bit of both. </p>
<p dir="ltr">After a restless night (perhaps due to the altitude, I didn't get much sleep), we set off from Kagbeni to hike up the steep slopes of the mountains leading to Muktinath. Within a few minutes, climbing up about 200 or so metres, the village becomes a tiny mark in a postcard. The mountains stretch in all directions as far as the eyes can see with the early morning sun shining off the snow clad peaks in the distance. There is no sign of inhabitation anywhere sans the village in the by now far off distance. As my breath gets more laboured and the body starts all kind of tricks to abandon the walk, the noisy roar of a Jeep pierces the air as we see it approaching us from the slopes below. In a moment of weakness, the body compels the mind to seek a ride up the mountain on the Jeep. When the child cries, how can the Mom keep quiet, hmm? Well, as luck would have it, the Jeep was going in the exact same direction as us (not that there's any place else to go!) and the driver gestured us to hop in. The only catch? We were to travel in the back of the open Jeep with a big diesel drum that was getting transported to the next village (to power the JCB that is used for clearing the roads of landslide debris/laying new toppings). As the Jeep took off towards Jharkot, it's destination, I held on for dear life as every stone and pebble on the path wanted to convey their greetings to me! And there were a million of them. No really, I am not exaggerating. Okay, only a bit though. But then of course one must take the necessary risk of letting their hands go once in a while as one remembers to capture the scenes for austerity. Click after click after click kept me occupied - hey, the peak there, hey the cloud there, hey the glacier there, hey the naturally formed caves there, hey hey hey! So in what seemed like barely 30 or so minutes we are at the outskirts of Jharkot. Time to walk up the last few miles to Muktinath which is near yet was so far. </p>
<p dir="ltr">Dory to the rescue! Dory of the Finding Nemo fame. Remember what she sings? Just keep walking, just keep walking (well she says swimming but hey considering that I do not know to swim upstream, uphill the Kali Gandaki, I can't very well follow that now, can I?). But nature is kind. More kind than anyone gives her credit for. Just as I was starting to feel the burning of my feet, she gave me a mountain stream to delight at and imagine dipping my feet into. Just as I was feeling the effects of the steep slopes on my knees, she showed me a beautiful plant ladden with berries in my favorite colour of Red. And just as I was starting to feel the heat of the Sun as he climbed up higher, she amazed me with natural pathways covered by trees and strewn with leaves. Wonder after wonder revealed themselves to me as I lost myself in the flora of the sub-alpine Himalayas. And the next thing I know? We are at the cute little village of Jharkot, having Tea, with a lady researcher from Punjab (but who lives in Norway) talking about the lost cause of countries getting invaded and natural resources getting captured for power and greed. For reasons obvious, I must refrain myself from writing more in detail of our highly charged conversation that left a definite mark in our minds as we realised the immensity of the happenings in our neighbourhood. A silent prayer was all one was able to offer at that moment before continuing on our journey towards our own salvation to get the darshan of Muktinath (Mukti meaning salvation). By the way, if you happen to visit this cute village anytime, do not miss the 500 year old monastery - I totally loved the path leading up to it! </p>
<p dir="ltr">Talking of paths, I have no recollection of what came next - except that it was a really steep climb and that only my inner strength and conviction saw me through. The 3 kilometres walk that I so desperately tried to do every day back in Bangalore was no preparation at all for the final climb to salvation. And oh I do remember that some kind souls had built a few 'view points' aka resting points where one could halt and catch their breaths while pretending to take photographs. God bless them! </p>
<p dir="ltr">Human beings are so...I don't know the words to use here! How on Earth do you build a village complete with WiFi and Bob Marley Cafes high up the mountains? I guess one must commune with fellow beings that are not so motivated to attain Mukti (via WiFi and Internet) before one reaches the Temple of Muktinath. I took firm control of my mind and sternly warned it to keep quiet when my eyes searched for the WiFi sign to halt for Tea. Enough. Mukti must come before WiFi. But before that some Tea and biscuit please as we had forgotten about breakfast in our eagerness to get to the temple before it closes for Lunch (not the God but the Buddhist priestesses who take care of the temple retire at around 11 AM until 1 for lunch and perhaps some meditation). Hey, hunger is a sign of well being - which can only mean one thing! I am fully acclimatised and the altitude seems to be having no effect at all on me. Hurray! The breath is normal, there's no headache, no nausea and I wanted Tea! Cool. So remember that. Take a day and have a sleepless night at Kagbeni to better enjoy your hike up to Muktinath.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The final walk up the 100 or more steps (sorry I didn't count) to the Temple was a daze. There were buddhist prayer wheels and bells, the Hindu sadhus with matted hair, and then my dear Kali. Or rather one of the mountain stream or tributaries of Kali that comes rushing down from the Glacier high up on the Thorung pass (5300 mtrs I think) from Muktinath. This same stream is what also flows through the 108 spouts of water one must take bath in along with the 'pappa kund' and 'punya kund' before surrendering in front of Muktinath (also worshipped as Rinponche or Padmashambhava by the Buddhists). The water was freezing cold but I forced myself to walk below them instead of running from one end to another - I am not going to be bathing in these temperatures anytime soon after all. A highly emotional meeting with Mr. Muktinath aka Rinponche later, I settled to gaze at the temple from the <u>benches</u> arranged directly in front of the main entrance. The scene was magical. The cotton like seed pods from the Cottonwood tree (?) were all over the place, falling like snow from a clear sky. There was peace and quiet and a feeling of great blessing. A wave of much gratitude washed over me as I realised that my dream had come through. <br><br></p>
<p dir="ltr">To be continued....</p>
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The heart gave a tug and the mind thought illogically if the lake had dried up or got demolished or simply got converted to 'plots for sale'! City of three lakes cried another sign as we passed what looked like a granite quarry set on the banks of the Gandaki (must be) river. I wondered lamely if the granite is being 'harvested' (for lack of a better word, sigh!) from the river as part of a de-slitting process or if the reserves are being used up for 'economic development'. Clearly it was the latter as we came across more of those harvesting (!) sites and construction stones stacked on top of each other ready to be transported. Now the sign slowly made sense. Just like Bangalore, the citizens of Pokhara must be trying to save the Phewa lake (though am not sure from what exactly as most of the town is literally centered around the lake, whether as an attraction or as a pivot point of business). The mind didn't want to dwell on the unpleasant thought any longer - is human greed becoming bigger than the Himalayas themselves? </p>
<p dir="ltr">And that's the thing about being a tourist. One doesn't want to worry about pollution (the abundant smokers all around trying to pump in some nicotine to the deprived mountain air!), use of plastic (not really possible to carry water for the entire trip or risk drinking water from the tap so one is forced to buy that fresh Muktinath mineral water, sigh sigh), or taking that extra long hot shower (one has a target to finish a shower under two minutes back home so doesn't one deserve one good shower on a vacation at least? Not to mention that it might very well be the last shower for the next week as we head up the mountains with no bathing on plan...sigh, sigh, sigh). Fortunately before the sighs got longer and I set off on giving up on the entire human race, the bus grind to a final halt at the Pokhara lakeside bus stand. </p>
<p dir="ltr">Our cute little owner (which I will discover later) of the Lotus Inn where we had a booking had sent a cab and the driver of the said cab was running from bus to bus with my name written on a placard. Ha, what welcome, what pride, the mind was well pleased! And as luck would have it, we discovered that the tourist department that is in charge of issuing the permits required to trek in these regions is open on Sundays too! Oh, what delight, what joy! More so as the officials on duty took all of five minutes to give us that permit after checking the necessary details. If not the lake, Pokhara at least has a great tourist department. </p>
<p dir="ltr">A quick check in, chatting with the owner and a brief shower (yes, brief) later, we set off to see the acclaimed beauty (or not) of the Phewa lake ourselves. My vocabulary fails me as I try to capture the beauty of the greenness that was the lake. Lush green mountains, an emerald green lake reflecting the mountains, a blue sky with whiffs of pure white clouds here and there, and some fresh (albeit the nicotine, ahem) breeze that gently caresses you it's welcome - really, what more could one ask for? A little magical drizzle perhaps? Well we got that too as we set off a lakeside jaunt up the pretty walkway holding our umbrellas quaintly trying to soak it all in. Let my words not let you down.....let my pictures do the talking here. Please do take a look.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Oh, before I wind up for the day, let it be on records that I ate an authentic Nepali thali (alas, very much like an Indian everyday lunch affair consisting of Rice, mixed veg curry, fried Potatoes (man, the Nepalese sure are fond of their Potatoes though I must admit they spice it up quiet nicely), dal and some sweet curd (Grrrr.. my South Indian taste buds can never accept a sweet curd...Grrrr). Oh, did I mention that I had the thali at an 'authentic pure vegetarian marwadi' mini-staurant? Well, ya I did and we discovered that the pure Veg staurant might possibly be sharing it's kitchen with a hotel next door which may or may not be promising to be pure vegetarian (I didn't notice, sorry!). So much for local cuisine! </p>
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text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBtC7xsOr5RSG7oRL4ryY0eFU-YjPiaulbGOVluDDqcyg7VijRBo4ZyuC6JL_WoQSMTVgpnZwEqEi_w3D8VCDqk34af_f_VnJAHJu99RN7Dc_mrW_bmiMQOb1-Rlg7WKDFdA_4vmCRr8w/s1600/IMG_20160807_170101_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBtC7xsOr5RSG7oRL4ryY0eFU-YjPiaulbGOVluDDqcyg7VijRBo4ZyuC6JL_WoQSMTVgpnZwEqEi_w3D8VCDqk34af_f_VnJAHJu99RN7Dc_mrW_bmiMQOb1-Rlg7WKDFdA_4vmCRr8w/s640/IMG_20160807_170101_HDR.jpg"> </a> </div>Vaijayanthi KMhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00709649662447866587noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1259575802760095868.post-37475864429898994652016-08-08T06:19:00.001+05:302016-08-08T20:26:09.026+05:30Day 2 (Part 1) - Kathmandu to Pokhara - two eyes just aren't enough!<p dir="ltr">It's just about 24 hours since I landed in Nepal and it already feels like am in a different world. On first impressions, Kathmandu seemed like any other big town trying to cope with the influx of tourists. Garbage, traffic, drunken driving, political unrest (not right now but sometime back) and am sure more of such things. But it felt like home! The first sight of the Tribhuvan International Airport and the Buddha in this deep meditative state felt like this is a place I should have been to already. The people were friendly, there was controlled chaos everywhere and there's a separate queue for Indians and Nepalis. Yes, for once we seemed to be on the privileged side! But Kathmandu was hot! Landing from Bangalore, one wondered if the pilot flew to some south Indian town by mistake - it was so humid and sultry! The day only got hotter as we moved closer to the Annapurna Mountain range as we set off without any delay to Pokhara. Though our original plan was to stop at Manakamna and get the darshan of the Devi (there's a thrilling wench ride up the mountain), the logical question of what to do with our luggage forced us to come directly to Pokhara as we wouldn't be allowed to hoist them up the hill. </p><p dir="ltr">Pokhara is the gateway to some of the finest treks in this region and everyone in Nepal seemed to think it's an awesome place - right from our hotel manager to the cab driver at Kathmandu. So with a lot of excitement and anticipation of a smooth 6 hour drive, we settled in our high end 'fully A/c, with WiFi" mini luxury bus. In fact, WiFi and ATM seems to be ubiquitous as we discovered driving out of the town. Every bus to Pokhara promised this 'ultimate luxury' and there is an ATM every 200 feet or so! Though the former petered out once we moved out of Kathmandu and lost the signal! So much for the hyped up marketing!! And as for the smooth ride, I was forced to lull myself to a brief sleep to stop feeling every small stone that came under our bus as our bus driver hurled out of Kathmandu as if the very devil is behind his back! I wonder how I anyways manage to attract such sort of people who are always in a hurry to get things done (hehehe, if you ask the husband he will day am one too :p). </p><p dir="ltr">Soon, the sights of the city gave way to mountains covered in lush green forests, mist and cloud. Every turn of the road revealed another beautiful scenery that seemed like a page straight out of a book on mountain paradises. But one must admit that it does get tired quickly if one tries to win the title of 'the best photographer in an roller coaster'. A slight nagging headache developed and yours truly had to stuff the phone and camera inside and throw open all windows in sight to deal with the increasing temperatures (ya, the A/C seems to have vanished with the WiFi too!!). I wondered vaguely if I am already experiencing the first signs of altitude sickness thanks to the million hours I spent reading up on how to deal with it. I dismissed the thought as quickly as I got it as the altitude gain was way too insignificant to trigger any sickness let alone the big A! </p><p dir="ltr">An hour or two into the trip, past the traffic hold ups outside Kathmandu and past the crazy bends and turns in the hills, I woke up as the bus came to a jarring halt for a five minute nature break. Since nature didn't seem to be in a hurry to take a break, I took the opportunity to taste the 'local cuisine' remembering the hubby's wise old world to 'experience the culture'! Soaked and fried Chickpeas with fried potatoes with an optional topping of Pakodas (which I have the pass as it looked highly suspect). I never knew that Chickpeas could be so tasty or that Potatoes and they can go well together. With a mental note to try it on hubby back home, I quickly polished it off as our 'devil-might-catch-my-bum' driver started honking like there's no tomorrow! </p><p dir="ltr">From then on, I was hooked to the window as I decided I must somehow try to win that title I mentioned as the sights were too good to behold. Big mighty mountains, lush green fields, clear blue skies and a vivid setting in your mobile camera makes for awesome clicks that one can post proudly on Facebook. So since one can, I must hmm?</p><p dir="ltr">Little did I know that this was a small treat indeed compared to what was in store for me as the bus drew to a halt for a '25 minutes' breakfast (never mind that I gobbled up those Chickpeas thinking that was my breakfast). The mighty Kali Gandaki river (I think) revealed herself in all her glory in a site that is created just for a resort (but which is right now just a breakfast shackle). She flowed fast and furious down below while one could sit serenely for a slow breakfast and endless chitchat high up on the hill side. Alas, 25 minutes is barely enough to soak all that beauty in. A few quick clicks later, we got back on our way to Pokhara.</p><p dir="ltr">To be continued....</p><p dir="ltr"><br></p><p dir="ltr">Meanwhile, here are some pictures that in noway do justice to the beauty I witnessed today. As we say in Tamil, "Parka erandu kangal poradadi" (two eyes aren't enough to see this magnificence). </p><p dir="ltr"><br></p><p dir="ltr">Note: All pictures are from my humble mobile camera and most are captured from a moving bus :D</p>
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<p dir="ltr">Our flight from Bangalore to Nepal, variously called the land of the Himalayas, the land of the Buddha, the land of the temples, took off much earlier than the scheduled departure. It's almost like the pilot sensed our eagerness to get started on our journey. A journey of a lifetime that promises to be nothing short of life changing. A pilgrimage that is set to make us feel the minuscule nature of the self and fall in love with the magnificent creation all over again as Sadhguru would say. A journey that I have been looking forward to for many months now, perhaps even decades. I can't wait to get started!</p>
<p dir="ltr">My plan is simple..... Come to Kathmandu and go to the Kali Gandaki river. That's it. The elaborate itinerary, the detailed planning, the advanced bookings....all are to satisfy the practical mind. The heart wants to be in the banks of the Kali. The rest of the self must follow.</p>
<p dir="ltr">So as the day begins, here's to a little prayer, a little hope, a little love for all to be well with the world and for the self to feel the waters of the Kali lapping gently by my feet.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Until tomorrow, may the love continue.<br></p>
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